LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Header Install.......

Old May 2, 2004 | 05:05 PM
  #16  
DZNUTTS's Avatar
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Will it keep coming loose..... Will I have to tighten them every week........
Old May 2, 2004 | 05:15 PM
  #17  
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They shouldn't come loose if you heat cycle them like the above post said. Even the fipk clamp on my Jeep kept coming loose the first 2 weeks I had it on. After that/the last time I tightened it, it was fine.

I would also recommend ARP bolts or the stage 8 lockers. No personal experience with the ARP's but people I've talked to said they were A1 and never had any issues as far as them coming loose. My friend has the stage 8's on his 79 Z28 with Afterburners, and they've never budged since he's had them this year (about 8k HARD miles).

Jason
Old May 3, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #18  
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GOT IT........
Old May 3, 2004 | 09:00 PM
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ya I was thinking about how you would get a torque wrench in there write after I wrote that, I just have to keep an eye on them I guess
Old May 4, 2004 | 12:06 AM
  #20  
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i just did mine last week....we didnt run into any problems at all. Slide both sides up through the bottom. The hardest part was getting the stock manifolds off....you can check out my website for pics and stuff
Old May 4, 2004 | 06:50 AM
  #21  
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What if I don't have a y-pipe yet...... I probably won't be able to get one for a while...... Just want to know what I can use temporarily until I get a y-pipe........ I heard if you run open headers it will mess up your o2 sensors....
Old May 4, 2004 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally posted by Riddlerlt1
has everyone with jet hots been having the same problems with installation as the guy did in the link above?
Yep thats exactly what we when threw on my buddy's 94 TA.
Old May 4, 2004 | 10:30 AM
  #23  
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yeah, dont run open headers...bad idea...i would get a y pipe asap...if u dropped the cash on long tubes...might as well drop the cash on a y pipe too...
Old May 4, 2004 | 10:33 AM
  #24  
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"just tighten them tight as possible"
I don't think that is a very wise thing to do. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe there was someone asking how tight you should torque header bolts last week and as Shoebox said they are alluminum heads and should only be torqued to 26# (i think). I may be wrong so if I am someone please step in and correct me.
Old May 4, 2004 | 10:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally posted by tfs95z28
yeah, dont run open headers...bad idea...i would get a y pipe asap...if u dropped the cash on long tubes...might as well drop the cash on a y pipe too...

But I was going to have one fabricated..... And to do that I would have to drive about a hour or so.....I just need something or a set-up for temporary measures.....
Old May 4, 2004 | 12:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by DZNUTTS
But I was going to have one fabricated..... And to do that I would have to drive about a hour or so.....I just need something or a set-up for temporary measures.....
I ran open headers for a week or so before I had my duals fabricated. Its fine. If you are just running open headers to the shop or something, it is completely fine. It won't ruin your O2 sensors, but you might get some bad readings off them, due to the air right there. Just reset your PCM after you have your exhaust on there.
Old May 4, 2004 | 03:06 PM
  #27  
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oh, yeah, you didnt say how long you would drive like that. If its an hour...who cares...itll probably just get annoying as hell with everything rattling from the noise...haha. Yeah, it wont ruin anything for that short of a time, obviously.
Old May 4, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #28  
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COOL..... Atleast some good news.....
Old May 4, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by 30696bird
...and should only be torqued to 26#
I bought a repair manual to tell me how to get to my heater core today and was glancing at different things, anyway, exhaust manifold or headers are to be torqued to 30 #s , no more, but 26# might be good too. This is according to "Haynes Repair Manuals"
Old May 5, 2004 | 07:17 AM
  #30  
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OK...... If I can get my torque wrench in there.....
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