LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Header gaskets?

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Old Jun 15, 2003 | 05:55 PM
  #1  
djc485's Avatar
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Header gaskets?

I am installing a set of slp shorty headers in my car right now. The gaskets that slp provides suck! There are six different gaskets you have to use (3 per side) and this is a pain in the ***. My question is do any of you guys have any suggestions as to how to make this easier? If I go out and buy a 1 piece gasket from a parts store and use that will it be just as good. If I buy a 1 piece however I would have to drill out holes because there are two thread locations on ports:1,7,8,2. The sotck manifolds use the outside ones and the new headers use the hole closest to the ports. If I do drill the holes would this be a problem and lead to an exhaust leak and possibly a blown head gasket? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 06:43 PM
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djc485's Avatar
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Old Jun 15, 2003 | 06:44 PM
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Get Felpro #1406 headers gaskets.These are the best AFAIK.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 06:46 PM
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I like the felpros as well, graphite impregnated to make a great seal and won't stick when you need to pull them apart. Some of their gaskets have bolt slots in them, you set up the header, start all the bolts, then slide the gaskets down until they sit on the bolts, may have to wiggle the headers to get them down, then just tighten them all up.

good luck.
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 07:21 PM
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot tonite!
Old Jun 15, 2003 | 08:45 PM
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I just got my headers done today. Mr Gasket copperseal. They have the tabs someone talked about above. Actually most all header gaskets you buy will have those and both the holes so no drilling required. No leaks.

How far are you along???

Here are some tips: (maybe you already passed some of these steps but maybe it'll help someone else)

Have fun with the dipstick! Lube her up good and put it back in before you attempt to attach that header.

You'll need to extend the drivers side O2 wire.

You can put the drivers side in from the top if you unbolt 1 bolt on the brake lines and slide them forward. This saves you from pulling your oil filter if it's not time for a change. You'll have to undo the steering linkage at both places. The back bolt isn't a pain like the bottom one though anyways.

Check and double check your wires!!! I melted a couple like the air pump harness, and just started to melt the o2 lead on the passengers side.

You will lose the alternator mount that extended up from that stud. That stud will be too big/close to the primary to turn back on. it should be plenty sturdy with three mounting points.

Get a pipe elbow to move your pass side O2 sensor up so it's not the lowest point on your car. It should still get a good reading because the flow their will be so turbulent.

i take it you got the slp install kit. I didn't and i bought my own wire shielding, and header bolts. I got 3/4 " first, too short, then the 7/16 head ones i got i couldn't turn on the passenger side due to clearance between the primarys and the bolt. They worked fine onthe drivers side though. I got 3/8x16x1 allen head grade 5 bolts at the harware store. I should have just bought them all there. Hopefully the SLP kit takes care of that. I also ditched the air system because it's so damn ugly. i wasn't going to block off the egr, but then i did because i didn't have that extension included in the SLP installation kit. That is bull****, that piece should be included with the headers because it's specific to SLP's. Everything else is ok bundeled together because you can get it all aftermarket.

Have fun, I'm so glad i'm DONE!!! (well not yet, i still need a flange welded to the catback to hook it up to the cat/ORpipe.


-brent
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