I, of course, have the 2 hoses. The one closest to the side of the car is partly metal. I guess that would be the inlet hose. The other is about 16"-20" (guess) and all rubber.

Where it attaches at the bottom to the metal pipe has some peculiar looking end, so I can't exactly tell how it is attached.

Too bad you can't just use a length of std heater hose and route it away from the headers, but It probably would kink in the process. I don;t know.

I was quoted about $34.00 for the factory hose.

But I guess its not a good idea to have a partially burned heater hose.

These engines don't do well without coolant so I guess I'll just have to go with the OEM jobby and do the best I can.

SLP's solution of adding a patch of heat shield is, in my opinion, poorly conceived, since no heat shield is going to be effective if it comes in contact with the headers.

 

I used the fire sleeve, it had dried out on me and I have a melted hose, I put new tape and same situation, I hate to be driving down the road and pop, there goes all your coolant! I'll try the stainless line as long as it doesn't leak I'll be OK, but it adds 2 more points to leak from SUCKS!!!!!!!! SLP should come out with a hose kit for there Headers!!! re routes the hose..

 

Perhaps splicing an 8" length of 3/4 OD copper or aluminum pipe in the hose where it passes the header would provide the clearance. And if the that part of the hose has a bend in it, take it with you to a plumbing store and have them match the bend with some copper or aluminum. A radiator/AC shop might have both materials and give you some suggestions.

Let us know how it goes.

 

I work in the Aerospace industry, I may come up with something good!
Hopefully

 

Am I missing something here?,my 94 has steel(or alum.)pipes running along side of the inner fender (engine compart.),I just took my heads off and noticed all the rub marks on various items such as the coolant lines,the air-cond-core box,and thats on the pass side,on the driver side..the abs wheel sensor harness is fried(no wonder abs no work),and rub marks on the brake line shield has worn through,placing thermo-tech wrap bettween 2 pieces that have contact wont work(been there done that!)all that happens is it wears through!.

 

Please keep me posted on findings and possible solutions. I will do the same.

Thanks.

 

I am having a tough time making the 1" bend rad. 90. I may have to make a 3" rad. I'll keep you posted.

 

Got some bad news and good news.

Bad news is the rubber hose can't just be replaced since the pipe it is attached to has a special coupling and you would need to replace the whole damn pipe along with the rubber piece. Quit spendy.

Good news is that we know at least that we have but one reasonable option.

To wit: Cut and splice the rubber hose where it passes the header and splice a piece of pipe in between. The cut will be crucial as well as the type and bend of the pipe and the secureness of the connections.

Suggest slipping a fire sleeve over the metal pipe to keep it cooler if we can still get sufficient room between the pipe and header.

Also suggest ditching the damn squeeze clamp and replace with screw type clamp for ease of future access.

Good luck on that shaping of the pipe.

 

Will FAX you copy of heater hose diagram if you provide me FAX number.

 

Bubba
I went ahead and cut out a part of hose I left around 1.5" on the bottom and I have at least 8" on top coming from heater core.
It makes a 90 then a slight twist away from engine compartment.
I don't have a fax # but When I go to work tommorrow, I get yeah one I would love to have a diagram.
Thanks for the idea of fire sleeve on the pipe!, I should have plenty of room, but will use the idea still.

Frank

 

Ok. I will FAX when I get your number(s).

 

Does it show a lot of detail?

 

The diagram shows each of the hose parts and where they connect to the engine and firewall.

Had it printed off the computer at the Dealer.

 

That hose assembly is available both as one piece, or as individual pieces... [that crimped clamp can be Dremeled off and a regular hose clamp used then..]
I recently replaced all hoses with the Goodyear Hi Miler kit, and upgraded to the 95-7 configuration then also.. [since 93-4 isn't available]
I did them in the car too[ tricky but doable if you have the patience]

 

Kinda figured that the crimped part could be romoved or the pipe cut. But I guess since the important part is where it passes the header, I guess I thought it would be easier just to cut above the crimp. Either way you will need 2 clamps.

The mystery, in my opinion, is how to route the hose so it doesn't even come close to the header.
And since I can't figure it out yet, I will probably just cut and splice and hope for the best.

Thanks