The heater hoses on these puppies are strange. I think they come in several parts. Even though the hose had a heat shield, it touched the header and burned right through, melting a nice notch in my hose.

Thinking of maybe using regular heater hose rather than OEM hose as a replacement so that I might be able to route it a bit further away from the header.

Anyone think of a good solution to protect the hose from frying?

Thanks.

 

that sucks , the hoses are like 80 bucks and not fun to replace i remember when i did mine...

 

Taylor makes extreme heat protection wrap 4" by 1" ($6.95)and Cool It Thermo Tec makes Snap Strap stainless steel High-temp Tie Wraps 5/16"wide ($18.99) that you cut and make for application.

I wrapped the heat wrap around heater hose, wrapped the fastener around heat wrapped hose and tied it back to a/c accumulator metal line.

Was gonna cut off end of OEM hose near firewall to stretch it out a bit. Looked for a stainless steel flexible hose replacement too.


Good Luck

 

Didn't burn all the way through, but don't want to take any chances. Coolflex puts out a good flex hose, but it is VERY spendy.

Might cut and splice bad part, slip heat wrap over area and tie back to AC pipe or somthing.

Believe the key is to get some daylite between the hose and the headers and add heat shield.

I believe the routing sucks, but have yet to figure out how to do it otherwise.

Probably stupid to pay 35.00 for new hose piece when a cut and splice will probably work just as well.

Thanks for the responses.

 

I am having same problem, i have slp headers and the fire sleeve is dried out, I am gonna try heat tape, and try to tie the hose back I have no room, terrible design. If it dries the tape out again I am gonna try a heat sheild also. Keep us posted if you come up with something good OK

 

I have slp headers and when i first installed them my hose burned. All you need to do is get a zip tie and pull it away from the header. My hose is probably an inch away but has not burned since.

 

Did you zip tie it to the ac lines?, or did you make some sort of bracket to tie it to.????

 

Yep, tied it to the ac lines.

 

I wonder how long that piece of hose is???

What if one were take a std water heater copper flex pipe 3/4 OD and clamp std htr. hose 3/4 ID on each end and replace the OEM with this flexable pipe?

I believe at the Water heater pipe comes in 18" and 24".

Seems that such a mod would allow you to route closer to fender wall leaving more distance between hose and header. Just a thought.

 

On my 96 it is tight the ac unit (box) is right there tight!
I guess it couldn't hurt to try...Thanks for the ideas!!!!

 

The only thing is that copper fatigues easily and cannot tolerate a lot of movement/vibration.

 

Actually I got the idea from the products offered by Coolflex. They sell radiator and heater hoses made of copper.

They come in blk, red, chrome, black, and blue. They really dress up the engine bay too, but they cost over $200 for a kit.

Just thought that the water heater hose was same thing. If it works, I will see how much it costs to have it ceramic coated in silver. Probably not more than $50.00.

I will, however first try to find an easier way to eliminate the clearance problem.

Having a heater hose break is no picnic.

 

I am gonna try to make one out of stainless, I will have someone bend a piece at work, I wonder how much should overlap (rubber hose) over my insert rule of thumb 1"?

 

After 2+ hours spent plugging the heater outlet with my right hand and rerouting the hose behind the other heater hose with my left, I've come to the conclusion that a metal flex hose is probably not going to work well. Just not enough room.

Plan on getting some disposable handcuffs to tie the metal heater hose to the AC line which in turn should pull the rubber heater hose about a 1/2 inch off the headers.

I did manage to slip heat shield over the hose while I had it off, but I guess I better buy a new one since the current one has a nice burn mark on it.

I will probably supplelment the new hose with an extra 2" piece of hose so that it will reach the outlet easier.

Let me know of any other options you come up with to remedy this PITA situation.

 

My hose has a metal line crimped to it, after the bend, heading down towards the front of car. Is yours like that? I just cut mine, I hope I can duplicate the bends, I let you know if it works.
The line is weird it goes to rubber, steel, they should of made it all out of steel. I just pulled off my heat sheid I just put on last week, and found a nice burn mark!. I am glad I am catching it now!