Head torquing technique
Head torquing technique
I have read all the threads on torquing head bolts and the discussions between angle torquing and the torque wrench method. My question is a little different. I have Manley bolts and used the factory recommended 3 step torquing sequence with moly lube under the heads and washers and non-hardening Permatex on the threads. On the last setting, it seems that the bolts do not really tighten any more beyond the point they reached on the second step. Are you supposed to loosen the bolt and then retorque to the new value or just reset the wrench and pull from the previous point? Another thing that makes me question if the head bolts are tight enough is that the Mr Gasket .026" gaskets are holding the heads .030" off the block surface (measured with a feeler gauge).
Jim
Jim
Re: Head torquing technique
do not loosen the bolts and retighten on the third step...why did you do the first two in the first place??? it's all set up to ensure that the seal is good, just follow it.
as for the gasket issue...i have no clue.
as for the gasket issue...i have no clue.
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by Severous01
do not loosen the bolts and retighten on the third step...why did you do the first two in the first place??? .
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by Severous01
do not loosen the bolts and retighten on the third step...why did you do the first two in the first place??? .
Re: Head torquing technique
As I understand the 3 step torque sequence you gradually increase the torque setting on the wrench. You run the wrench in the first pass with about 30% of the final torque and about 65 % on the second pass. This will
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by 94Sleeper
As I understand the 3 step torque sequence you gradually increase the torque setting on the wrench. You run the wrench in the first pass with about 30% of the final torque and about 65 % on the second pass. This will
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
3 steps = 3 different torque values....
Whoever said the bolt "shouldn't move" on the 3rd torque step is way off.
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by 94Sleeper
As I understand the 3 step torque sequence you gradually increase the torque setting on the wrench. You run the wrench in the first pass with about 30% of the final torque and about 65 % on the second pass. This will
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
tighten the head down gradually. I run the sequence at about 20-25, 2nd sequence @ 40-45, then run the final pass @ 65 lb-ft.
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by Javier97Z28
3 steps = 3 different torque values....
Whoever said the bolt "shouldn't move" on the 3rd torque step is way off.
I stand corrected... thats not the same tq sequence I've used, yes I was way off if that procedure is used...
Re: Head torquing technique
If the final step was 65# ya are OK no matter what ya used in between. I don't do it that way as I do the three step. It is just to bring things together square and equal.
I am concerned with the .030 between the head and block. The only thing that can do that is the location dowels or the bolts bottoming out, or the head is cocked on the dowels--hence the 3 step.
The bolts may or may not turn on the last setting. Generally on the 4th time they won't after being set to 65#
If ya remove the head, the gaskets are junk unless they are Cometics or a specified reusable type.
Ya will get some say they aren't but try changing them in the car--- "Makes My Back Hurt"
I am concerned with the .030 between the head and block. The only thing that can do that is the location dowels or the bolts bottoming out, or the head is cocked on the dowels--hence the 3 step.
The bolts may or may not turn on the last setting. Generally on the 4th time they won't after being set to 65#
If ya remove the head, the gaskets are junk unless they are Cometics or a specified reusable type.
Ya will get some say they aren't but try changing them in the car--- "Makes My Back Hurt"
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by 1racerdude
If the final step was 65# ya are OK no matter what ya used in between. I don't do it that way as I do the three step. It is just to bring things together square and equal.
I am concerned with the .030 between the head and block. The only thing that can do that is the location dowels or the bolts bottoming out, or the head is cocked on the dowels--hence the 3 step.
The bolts may or may not turn on the last setting. Generally on the 4th time they won't after being set to 65#
If ya remove the head, the gaskets are junk unless they are Cometics or a specified reusable type.
Ya will get some say they aren't but try changing them in the car--- "Makes My Back Hurt"
I am concerned with the .030 between the head and block. The only thing that can do that is the location dowels or the bolts bottoming out, or the head is cocked on the dowels--hence the 3 step.
The bolts may or may not turn on the last setting. Generally on the 4th time they won't after being set to 65#
If ya remove the head, the gaskets are junk unless they are Cometics or a specified reusable type.
Ya will get some say they aren't but try changing them in the car--- "Makes My Back Hurt"
The head is not cocked because the .030 gap is uniform at the intake and exhaust sides of the head. I did not check that the head would go flat against the block without the gasket in place and the heads have been milled but not a huge amount.
Jim
Re: Head torquing technique
Originally Posted by LT1inaMGB
If the next to final pass is at 60 ft# and the final pass is at 65 ft# the stretch in the bolt will still be at the 60 ft# value because you have not exceeded the breakaway torque to get the bolt to turn. If the previous pass was at 30 ft# the bolt would break away and turn and reach the stretch value that 65 ft# would generate. My concern is that the bolts are not turning between the 2nd and the final torque settings and that the proper tension is not being put into the bolts. Thats why I asked about backing off slightly and then torquing to the final value.
The head is not cocked because the .030 gap is uniform at the intake and exhaust sides of the head. I did not check that the head would go flat against the block without the gasket in place and the heads have been milled but not a huge amount.
Jim
The head is not cocked because the .030 gap is uniform at the intake and exhaust sides of the head. I did not check that the head would go flat against the block without the gasket in place and the heads have been milled but not a huge amount.
Jim
When the bolts are at 65 and the wrench is set to 65 nothing moves.
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