I installed my heads with a set of ARP head studs but I think I did not torque them enough for forced induction. Is it ok to go back and retorque them. I used rtv on the studs that pass through water jackets and I oiled the nuts and washers. If I re-tighten them will that not break the rtv sealant and cause a water leak.
What should I torque them to. I'm using a 1074 gaskets and I could run as much as 15 lbs on boost

 

why did u use rtv on them? are you using after market heads?

 

I read rtv works better then ARPs thread sealer. And yes I'm running a set of AFR 210s.

 

Anyone know if its OK to re-tighten with ultra grey without causing a leak

 

You should have used a non hardening pliable sealant, not silicone. Also torquing those studs is much more consistent and accurate with ARP lube rather than oil. I would drain the coolant, and remove and re-seal each stud one at a time.

What did you torque them to?

 

65 lbs. The engine is still out of the car. Does that effect the head gasket if I pull one bolt at a time. What should I use as a thread sealer.

 

So the motor hasn't been run yet?

Depends upon what headgasket you're using, but some(MLS, 10 series fel-pro) you could just pull all the studs and take the head off if it hasn't been run yet and re-do the job.

Regardless, pulling one at a time will not hurt anything. Use a tube brush(nylon) to scrub out the threads down in the block with some lacquer thinner or brake clean, then seal your threads with Permatex #2

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._2_Sealant.htm

You could also use Permatex thread compound if that's easier to get.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

Now torque the studs to 65ft/lb with ARP moly lube. If you need to use oil again the torque number is 80ft/lb.

 

I'm using felpro 1074 head gaskets. I just realized the studs won't leak because they will not turn. The nuts will turn therefore the seal will not break from the head to the stud. I think I'm going to leave the heads on and just tighten them to 80lbs

 

If you retorque them, loosen them 1/4 turn first (not with your torque wrench). I would do like the other guy says and get some moly lube on the threads and then torque them using that instead of oil.