Head and cam package to use???
Head and cam package to use???
I will try not to get too windy but I am torn between going with a Lloyd Elliott LE1 package or going with a Advanced Induction street package with a CC305 cam. Most people have a tendancy to overcam their engine and I am trying hard to avoid that although I love the sound of DEENASTY's post that I just listened to his AVI. So pretty much it boils down to what I want. So here is what I have.
I have a 91 Camaro RS convertible. I am yanking its engine and trans and putting in a 95 LT1 with 4L60E. My donor 95 LT1 is fried and I have someone that will give me a good price on a 383 rotating assembly and I will have a different post about that later. My car has alston subframe connectors welded in and spohn LCA's and panhard bar. I will put the strut brace on when I drop the engine in. I have already rebuilt the rear with 3.42 gears and LS1 Zexel limited slip. If I kill the rear I will go 12bolt but this rear is in there now.
I want the car to be very streetable so I can cruise through the mountains or down the coastline with the top down and no driveability issues. BUT and theres always a BUT, I want the car to be capable of high 12's on street tires to help ensure that I can put rice in its place. Plenty of fast little WRX's out there and other fast 4 bangers and I don't want my LT1 project to be a slouch. I want ***** when I stomp on it but nice cruising manners. I really don't want to run over 2000 or 2400 rpm stall because I think that will affect that low speed cruising driveability.
Which way to go. Should I go with AI kit and maybe go to the street strip port on the heads with a milder cam or is the LE1 the way to go. I think the LE2 is a bit too hot for what I want from the car driveability wise. I need some input from those that have done this before me. This is going to be a fairly expensive project so I don't want to screw it up.
I have a 91 Camaro RS convertible. I am yanking its engine and trans and putting in a 95 LT1 with 4L60E. My donor 95 LT1 is fried and I have someone that will give me a good price on a 383 rotating assembly and I will have a different post about that later. My car has alston subframe connectors welded in and spohn LCA's and panhard bar. I will put the strut brace on when I drop the engine in. I have already rebuilt the rear with 3.42 gears and LS1 Zexel limited slip. If I kill the rear I will go 12bolt but this rear is in there now.
I want the car to be very streetable so I can cruise through the mountains or down the coastline with the top down and no driveability issues. BUT and theres always a BUT, I want the car to be capable of high 12's on street tires to help ensure that I can put rice in its place. Plenty of fast little WRX's out there and other fast 4 bangers and I don't want my LT1 project to be a slouch. I want ***** when I stomp on it but nice cruising manners. I really don't want to run over 2000 or 2400 rpm stall because I think that will affect that low speed cruising driveability.
Which way to go. Should I go with AI kit and maybe go to the street strip port on the heads with a milder cam or is the LE1 the way to go. I think the LE2 is a bit too hot for what I want from the car driveability wise. I need some input from those that have done this before me. This is going to be a fairly expensive project so I don't want to screw it up.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
I personally would go with AI. They don't do things in stages, they port the head to perform well at the track and the strip. Top notch CNC porting as well. They also offer money back if you are not satisfied
I'm thinking of buying a set for myself in the hopes of picking up a little power
Good luck.
I'm thinking of buying a set for myself in the hopes of picking up a little power
Good luck.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
You can't go wrong by contacting Lloyd and Phil and getting their suggestions.. Both have proven to be quite friendly and patient with answering questions.
Also, the stall plan is a little low there. The stocker is ~1800 and you have no problem taking off from a stop at a much lower rpm than that, right? Your tune with the bigger cam will probably have your idle around 800-900 rpm (more or less, just an example. mine with the XE 224/230 was 850). With a 2k stall, you'd be standing on the brakes every time you came to a stop. It'll lurch on you. A 2800-3000 from an established vendor will be totally streetable and will make much better use of the higher (rpm-wise) power band.
Give these a read: http://www.converter.com/faqs.htm
Also, the stall plan is a little low there. The stocker is ~1800 and you have no problem taking off from a stop at a much lower rpm than that, right? Your tune with the bigger cam will probably have your idle around 800-900 rpm (more or less, just an example. mine with the XE 224/230 was 850). With a 2k stall, you'd be standing on the brakes every time you came to a stop. It'll lurch on you. A 2800-3000 from an established vendor will be totally streetable and will make much better use of the higher (rpm-wise) power band.
Give these a read: http://www.converter.com/faqs.htm
Re: Head and cam package to use???
I haven't driven a car that had that much stall before. This car won't likely see any track runs but I do want it CAPABLE. Of course after a breakin I may not be able to resist a few passes to at least show off my new toy.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
To be honest a CC305 is a tiny tiny tiny cam in a 383. I have a larger cam than that in my 350 and it drives fine. You can put a much more aggresive cam in a motor like the one you are talking about and still have essentially perfect driveability with good tuning.
You cant go wrong with either head porter. I'd talk to them about cam choice as well.
I'd go with a vig 2800 stall, it works extremely well.
You cant go wrong with either head porter. I'd talk to them about cam choice as well.
I'd go with a vig 2800 stall, it works extremely well.
Last edited by Z97LT1; Oct 13, 2005 at 11:36 PM.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
You can always ask either one of them to make you a cam that will fit your needs the best. I know if you ask Lloyd I'm pretty sure he can come up with a cam for you that fits your needs.
Bret
Bret
Re: Head and cam package to use???
Just remember that Lloyd can port the heads to a higher stage than the cam you'd want, what he has posted isn't all he offers. talk to him and AI to see what is best, I know from experience Lloyd is friendly and willing to answer questions even if you're just shopping around.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
Since I am only about 50 miles from AI, I am thinking about going with this package:
383 stroker kit which I need to replace the fried rotating assembly in my 95 LT1
AI 180cc street strip heads, I like the smaller runner size with great flow for better low end torque.
with a comp cams 07-467-8 cam which has the following specs. 230/236 @ .050" 280/288 adv 576/570 lift on a 113 LSA
I also plan to spend the extra $225 with them to have the intake cleaned, bead blasted and ported since my intake looks like its been in the ocean for a while. NASTY looking thing it is.
Also, a set of pace setter 1 3/4" LT headers with off road Y pipe and dynomax cat back ( I like the sound of the dynomax which I have been running for a little while).
I still haven't made up my mind on the stall yet. Since I have to buy a wiring harness now, I may be approaching budget restrictions and I hate that.
Are 30lb injectors going to be enough or do I need 36lb? I am already running the walbro 255ltr pump.
Thanks for the input thus far.
383 stroker kit which I need to replace the fried rotating assembly in my 95 LT1
AI 180cc street strip heads, I like the smaller runner size with great flow for better low end torque.
with a comp cams 07-467-8 cam which has the following specs. 230/236 @ .050" 280/288 adv 576/570 lift on a 113 LSA
I also plan to spend the extra $225 with them to have the intake cleaned, bead blasted and ported since my intake looks like its been in the ocean for a while. NASTY looking thing it is.
Also, a set of pace setter 1 3/4" LT headers with off road Y pipe and dynomax cat back ( I like the sound of the dynomax which I have been running for a little while).
I still haven't made up my mind on the stall yet. Since I have to buy a wiring harness now, I may be approaching budget restrictions and I hate that.
Are 30lb injectors going to be enough or do I need 36lb? I am already running the walbro 255ltr pump.
Thanks for the input thus far.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
Originally Posted by brharris27370
Since I am only about 50 miles from AI, I am thinking about going with ...

Originally Posted by brharris27370
I still haven't made up my mind on the stall yet. Since I have to buy a wiring harness now, I may be approaching budget restrictions and I hate that.
but don't cut corners with the stall. Been there, done that, even though I saw it mentioned over and over again on this board not to. If you can't swing $500ish for an Edge 9.5" or (even more $) a Vigilante, wait until you can. These things make a world of difference.
Originally Posted by brharris27370
Are 30lb injectors going to be enough or do I need 36lb?
Good luck
Re: Head and cam package to use???
My car is a daily driver and I have a 250 mile round trip to the track every weekend(20 a year) with the car.
It is not fast(12.4s @ 108) but with the A4 and 4.11 gears I am still getting 23 MPG,I have a 3200 COAN stall and have NO ISSUES at all anywhere,it idles great,no surges,do not get a small stall,you would regret it.
Phil at Ai is a very very nice guy,he will make you exactly the combo you want!!!
P.S. I will have a 396 next season and am sure that it will be just as streetable and civilized on the street and much meaner on the track!!!!!
It is not fast(12.4s @ 108) but with the A4 and 4.11 gears I am still getting 23 MPG,I have a 3200 COAN stall and have NO ISSUES at all anywhere,it idles great,no surges,do not get a small stall,you would regret it.
Phil at Ai is a very very nice guy,he will make you exactly the combo you want!!!
P.S. I will have a 396 next season and am sure that it will be just as streetable and civilized on the street and much meaner on the track!!!!!
Last edited by timelord; Oct 15, 2005 at 01:13 PM.
Re: Head and cam package to use???
Now if I could still pull 23mpg on the highway that would be incredible. The car currently gets 24mpg with 3.42 gears on a 350 making about 340fwhp and still needs a little tuning but since its motor is just barely better (uses a quart of oil every 125 miles) than the LT1 that I bought for the swap it likely has more gas mileage in it. I really don't see why it would guzzle more gas unless its a poor tune on the PCM or if I go with too much stall. I know LEAD foot always equals bad gas mileage but most times I can control myself.
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