Head bolts are no fun :(

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Apr 25, 2004 | 12:14 PM

Spinner

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,945

From: Fort Benning, GA

Head bolts are no fun :(

I was quite surprised when my Ingersoll-Rand 2445Ti 3/8" impact couldn't zap them off. What's the best way to go about taking these off, a breaker bar and a lot of *** behind it? Also, if anyone could point me to a page with the head bolt sequence and torque steps for tightening, that'd be great

Apr 25, 2004 | 12:23 PM

Loadre

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Joined: Jul 2001

Posts: 1,887

From: Kingsport, TN

A breaker bar to break them loose. Some of the back ones aren't too fun. Then zip them off with the airgun.

Apr 25, 2004 | 12:33 PM

Mindgame

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Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 2,985

From: In a house by the bay

A 1/2"-drive breaker with a cheater pipe (may need) will get the job done. Just make sure you have the socket seated all the way down on the nut before you put the grunt to it.

You can find a bolt tightening diagram here, as well as typical torquing specs (30, 50, 70).
http://www.trickflow.com/product/che...stallation.asp

I'd use head studs for your rebuild. IMO, bolts are best left to lawn mower rebuilds.

-Mindgame

Last edited by Mindgame; Apr 25, 2004 at 12:47 PM.

Apr 25, 2004 | 12:41 PM

Spinner

Thread Starter

Registered User

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 2,945

From: Fort Benning, GA

Quote:

Originally posted by Mindgame
A 1/2"-drive breaker with a cheater pipe (may need) will get the job done. Just make sure you have the socket seated all the way down on the nut before you put the grunt to it.

You can find a bolt tightening diagram here, as well as typical torquing specs (30, 50, 70).
http://www.trickflow.com/product/che...stallation.asp

I'd use head bolts for your rebuild. IMO, bolts are best left to lawn mower rebuilds.

-Mindgame

Excellent link. Thanks.