LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

having trouble after H/C swap

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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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having trouble after H/C swap

Hey guys 1st post here, I've lurked from time to time but I had always limited myself to one auto forum(tech) cause I spend enough time on just one
But I was directed over here for the strong LTx crowd. so heres my Q

I just finished swapping my heads and cam not too long ago but am having a hard time getting it to run properly. but first I'll give a run down on what recently has been done: AI 226/234 cam, cc918's(spring height of 1.845"), stock heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, impala HG's, CM 7.150 PR's, stock rockers, stock lifters, stock studs. I know its far from an ideal set up but I had to do the intake mani gasket so I wanted to cam it while I was in there and that was all the money I could spend on it. I was figuring on getting RR's at a later point, I also have not re-tuned my PCM for the cam ATM.

On the install: I eyeballed the cam dowel pin @ 3o'clock and lined the crank sprocket dot up w/ the cam sprocket dot w/ a straight edge at 12' and 6o'clock respectively. I put the opti in w/ the biggest hole placed in the 3o'clock position as well. I then installed the crank hub & pulley w/ the mark @ 12o'clock.

adjusting the lash: first I wanted to do it w/ the engine running so I tightened the rockers down 4threads and leaving them loose, turned the key and it fired right up but ran really rough w/ a low idle around 600(tune is @1k). I started tightening all the valves down but was having a hard time quieting them down all the way and improving the idle quality, when I shut it down the temp was almost in the red. I'm not sure if thats because I was adjusting the valves or if I have/had an air pocket in my cooling system. the SES light also came on pretty early which will be getting scanned tomorrow.

I then tried adjusting the valves w/ the engine off w/ the method of bringing #1 TDC adjusting the proper valves and bringing #6 TDC then adjusting the remaining ones using 3/4turns as a preload after 0lash. when I tried firing it up I got nothing so I did it over and still got nothing so I did it twice again and still had nothing. So I tried backing off the valves 1/4turn and got it to fire up but it was still running like crap idling around 500rpm and stalling out after a min or so. I then backed off the valves an 1/8turn and tried starting it and only got sputtering. backed it off another 1/8turn and less sputtering, more cranking.

So thats the point where I'm at now, confused as hell. I don't know where or what I should be checking or doing other than adjusting the valve lash ONE more time, this time going cylinder by cylinder. I know the wires are on right right, the only pig-tails not connected are the ones for the EGR and AIR which have been deleted and tuned out. the oil pressure is good when it runs but I haven't had it running long enough since the 1st time to see if the temp would rise like that again. I think that pretty much covers everything, I learned the most accurate way to find TDC and adjust lash off my thread on tech which I'll use tomorrow so I don't need any how to's on that, not being an *** just don't want anyone wasting their time what do you guys think might be going on? could this just be a lash issue? or does it sound like something else is wrong? what are some things I should check out? thanks in advance people!

Last edited by zzoomin; Aug 21, 2009 at 10:44 PM.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 04:14 AM
  #2  
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You need a tune.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 06:27 AM
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I think I SHOULD get a tune but I don't think its the cause of all this, I've seen LT1's run with 10-20degrees more duration w/o a tune. I've been out of work @ my regular job for over a month now and I'm just scraping by atm, won't be back @ my reg job for another week or two which is why I haven't gotten it re-flashed yet. it should still run just pretty rough am I right? but not the way its running when I get it to run now, maybe I should get a sound clip for you guys? it doesn't sound right and theres not much throttle response at all.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 07:42 AM
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sounds like you might have messed up the plug wiring. double check all your plug wires are going to the correct plugs. ive seen plenty of people make that mistake.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 08:52 AM
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If you think it is a lash problem, just back them way off and give them little lash. People suggested you need a tune, but you apparently don't agree. You need some real time scan info to see what things look like.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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Sounds like lash and tune. Try setting your lash with the EVOIC method and get a mail order tune.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by shoebox
If you think it is a lash problem, just back them way off and give them little lash. People suggested you need a tune, but you apparently don't agree. You need some real time scan info to see what things look like.
no I know I should get a tune but I don't want to spend the $ right now I've got rent & bills coming up. I'll have Ion re-tune it next week or the week after when I'm back @ my regular job. I just wanted to get this thing running and I don't think the tune alone would lead to a no start situation would it?
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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Toss the stock pushrods back in it and see if it will fire.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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spring height seems high (I think my 918 were at 1.75)

and I used stock push rods 7.2 (I think)
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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918's suggested installed spring height is 1.8", I'll try the stock PR's if it doesn't fire after this next adjustment I'm working on but 7.150 is what AI spec'd for the cam.. of course I was going to check the length once I had it running so who knows.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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alright I think I'm on to something, I stuck my finger in #1's spark plug hole and rotated the crank until the air wasn't squeezing by my finger and the mark on the hub I was using for TDC was at 9o'clock and not 12. I don't know how its possible but its not where I put it when I put it on w/ it @ 12 w/ #6 TDC. I'll re-djust the valves to that and check back in.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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If you use the EVOIC method it takes verifying TDC out of the equation.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ulakovic22
If you use the EVOIC method it takes verifying TDC out of the equation.
I'm working by myself and I don't have a remote starter switch, if it doesn't run now than I'll wait til I can get some one to help me.
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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well it fired right up but was running rough again and started stumbling so I went to give it some gas on the TB and when my hand got close to the rubber intake boot I started getting shocked. is this a ground problem? the only ones I took off were the two on the coil and they both go back onto the right mount bolt for the coil right?
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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I'm stumped again.. this makes no sense! I had a plug wire that wasn't quite on all the way so I fixed that and now it won't fire up again! it just cranks the then when I stop cranking it it will turn over a few more times.
do I have these grounds right? I put the double one on 1st than the single one. I also pulled that pig tail back out because its was suspected to be for the AIR pump but never positively confirmed.
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I triple checked the wire connections and order. ...don't know what else to do

Last edited by zzoomin; Aug 22, 2009 at 01:25 PM.



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