I would like to get rid of everything as far as HVAC is concerned, but I drive girls around sometimes and they tend to appreciate AC

 

What about #2?

 

You should have just gotten longtubes- can't reach a single one on the pass. side from the bottom. If my A/C system wasn't working I would have ripped it out when I put in headers, that U shaped tube on the back of the compressor is in the way, plus I might have been able to keep the stock plug wires.

 

I have Jet Hot coated Hooker LTs and true duals and a bunch of other stuff I am too lazy to put in my sig.
Your right on #2, its easy to get from the bottom if you don,t have AC though.

I have so much room to work now, it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

 

Ive considered removing my AC because it no longer blows cold air, however it does serve as a fan sometimes blowing neutral air...would that change?



kind of a weird question..

 

!a/c

 

When you go under the dash, inside the heater/AC box, theres a heater core, the AC evaporator and the fan. If you only remove the AC evaportor you will still have a heater, defroster and a source for vent air. If you remove the evaporator, AND take the box off the firewall using a blanking plate, I suspect there might be a problem retaining the fan.

I removed everything except the evaporator - just never got around to pulling the dash apart to get to it. Heat and vent fan work normally.

 

Thats what I am in the process of doing now. I am leaving my heater core in and defrost to keep the windows from fogging up but wondered what to do with the EVAP vaccum lines? Do I still need the vacuum line from the intake or EVAP to the FPR?

 

i took it all out..i live in ct...and first of all..i had to drain it when doing my swap..plus i NEVER use it since I have ttops..the space down there is nice..esp when you have lt headers. =)

 

I believe you may be saying EVAP when you mean HVAC. You still need the line that runs from the intake to the HVAC check valve then down the the vacuum can under the pass side headlights. You also need to retain the FPR vacuum line.

These two lines are mounted right together coming out of the intake on the pass side.

 

i gained 250 RWHP after removing my AC system.

 

Yes you are right I meant HVAC. I know I need to keep the vacuum line from the intake to the FPR. But I have installed AN fitting to the back of the rails and done away with the stock fuel lines. Doesnt that mean that the HVAC check valve is useless now?

Thanks for the replys everybody

Clint

 

There's no relationship between the HVAC vacuum system and the fuel rails or the FPR. The vacuum line runs from the manifold to the check valve and to the canister and the HVAC controls. If you still want the flapper valves in the dash to work, you need to leave the complete system intact.

 

10/4 thank ya

 

As stated previously, you will gain pretty much no HP because under WOT your AC is disengaged. If you yank the AC the only real benefit is lightening up the front end of your car. And the weight IMO is significant.

I yanked the AC out of my Z a few years back, with the new pulley in place of the factory one, + my underdrive and alternator pulleys, it took me forever to find a belt that fit. For the weight loss it gave me, I really don't think it was worth living without AC. I lived in Indiana at the time (I am sure it wasn't as hot as FL, however it still gets hot), and after I yanked the AC, I really started missing it on those hot days of summer. It's funny how I never realized how much I used it, until it wasn't there anymore. But hey, thats just my opinion. If you don't care how much you sweat while you are driving on a hot day, and 60 lbs or so off your front end makes you a little faster, and therefore happier, yank it out!