Thanks for your help gys, I have a crows foot puller that allows a 7/16 bolt to fit through and thats what I am using, but I will go rent the 3 claw puller from autozone and try and get the pully that way and go from there.

Thanks again guys

 

I have an extra crank bolt that I use just for this purpose. I used a drill and "hollowed" out the center part of my removal/installation bolt that is slightly longer than stock length with another nut on it to prevent the bolt from bottoming out and ruining the crank threads. The hollowed out portion works well to keep a three jaw puller straight on the balancer or hub, whatevever I'm removing at the time. The balancer is usually easier than the hub by the way.

I also agree with the master Shoebox however; that the best thing to do is get the correct tool specifically designed for the purpose. I ruined a perfectly good crank bolt the first time I did this BTW.

Good Luck and get some sleep.

 

As far as I know I am using the right tool, I am using a crows foot puller that fits 7/16" bolts and I thread it right into the three holes and then I had a bolt that I put where the crank bolt was and pulled off that....it trashed many bolts now. I got the pulley off, but I still can't get the hub, it must be rusted on pretty good.

 

Ok guys well hopefully this is my last question about this...do I wanna get a bolt that threads in the same threads as the crank bolt but is just longer so I can push off of that, or do I want something a couple sizes smaller that will pass through the threads where the crank bolt goes and then push off of that? If I do it the second way that will push off of the crank won't it since it passes through the threads? Is that bad?

I just soaked the heck out of it with PB Blaster and am gonna let it sit for a while so hopefully that helps, but I am having way too much trouble with this for something that should be easy...

Thanks again guys

 

TTT

 

When all else fails buy the Kent-Moore J-39046. Or
as one of my good buddies always says "get the
"J" whatever it is tool". It also helps if you have a
friend thats a dealer mechanic.

 

So does anyone know which way will be better?

1. Use a grade 8 bolt that threads into the crank bolt hole all the way and is long enough so i can break the hub free.

or

2. Use a grade 8 bolt that pass through the threads and push off of the crank?

This thing is really stuck on there and I don't wanna damage anything.

Thanks for the help guys

 

I used a smaller bolt to push off the back of the crank and it worked beautifully. I used that method because i read in a bunch of old threads here that you put a lot of stress on crank threads.

 

A bolt threaded until it bottoms out might be ok. Just don't thread it in so tight that it gets jammed. I have seem commercial pullers that use a hardened rod that is used to push against.

 

When I took my hub off of my crank I used a 3/8" bolt that was long and a 3 leg puller and pulled it off. You have to make sure that you hit the bolt straight on with the puller, otherwise it will bend the bolt. It took some muscle to get that bad boy off of there. Plus you have to keep the crank from turning. I was turning so hard that the puller and the crank were trying to turn.

Oh, and it's probably not rusted on. It's press fit on there, that's why it's such a mother to get off of there. There isn't enough room to get any water in there. My hub has been on there probably most of it's life (120,000 mi), and when I took the hub off the crankshaft and the inside of the hub were shiny new.

Be careful with the bolt that you are using to bottom out in the crankshaft! I used my OEM hub bolt to bottom out at the bottom of the crankshaft to turn the engine over (to get to TDC) and it messed up the threads on the end of the bolt. I don't think that the crankshaft is threaded quite all the way to where it bottoms out.

Good luck on your endeavor.