FWIW, hot oil and cold coolant are not bad things at all if you run synthetic oil.

Bret

 

Agreed to a point personally even synthetic I would like to see no higher than about 220 even though the good ones are shown to handle even well beyond that well. I also think that if people are going to cool oil it should not be random cooling but rather regulated somehow be it the oil thermostat kit that bypasses the cooler till warm or using an in radiator cooler which ties it more to coolant temp.

 

Ok, thanks for the info man, that's exactly what I wanted to know.



Wouldn't a 6" rod give me MORE side load? (shorter piston) and cause more issues with the oil ring hanging over the wrist pin hole

And I've never heard of bringing down the top ring .180 for N20?


Cool, so which would be better and which would be cheaper? Or would they be around the same price?




and SStrokerAce, I was told I you're the man to talk to about building a stroker. I need a bit more info on flow etc if you've ever got the time

 

You could go even higher with M1 without issues at all, in fact I don't think that would be a bad idea if you can keep the rest of the temps in the motor down. M1 can easliy handle another 100°F than you mention here.

Bret

 

Longer rods have less side loading, but the piston ring pack is more compact which can alter it's stability but I wouldnt worry about that.

Lower top ringland placement can help save rings from problems with N2O but it's not foolproof.

I'm a fan of ProGram main caps and Oliver main caps. The best thing to do is ask the machine shop or engine builder you are using.

Shoot me a e-mail or PM and I'll see what I can do. I try to help as much as I can.

Bret

 

I have seen UOAs of the good oils like M1 being run over 300 on the roadcourse and and all looking suprizingly good I just wouldn't feel good about doing it even though that data shows it can work.

 

Hey Bret! Are you getting MY e-mails? I'd really like to speak with you, but I can't if you don't reply.