When I let my car sit for 3 or more hours it takes two or three 30 second tries to get it started. and while it is running the BLM's stay at 108 as soon as it goes closed loop.

I don't have any codes and I even checked the FPR for leaking.

Any Ideas?

 

what does the coolant temp read?
map sensor?
both banks read 108 or just one side?

 

coolant temp reads normal (160)
Map is reading OK (1/3 of the BAR reading)
I only saw one BLM reading of Freescan, so don't know which side

 

I was thinking maybe a leaky injector, but it doesn't blow allot of black smoke when it finally starts.

Oh and anything less than 3 hours sitting and it starts right up.

 

what is your fuel pressure when you shut it down? does it stay high or gradually go down?

 

I don't know I haven't put a gauge on it yet, Do you know how much it should go down or how fast?

 

When the vehicle is shut down, it should stay high 42 to 50 for a long time.

 

TTT

 

disconnect the MAF sensor and look at your BLM's.

Is it missing in idle? does it miss at 3000+?

If its missing, you prolly have a leaking injector, or the spark plug is not burning the gas. Check BOTH BLM's also.

 

It doesn't feel like it's actually missing, but at idle it jumps around allot. It jumps between 800 and 1000. What does disconnecting the MAF do?

As far as I know I can't feel a miss at any other RPM's

 

if your car is running rich at idle........it will jump around.

also an unplugged or shorted 02 sensor will make the idle fluctuate up and down. with a scanner, check your 02 readings and post back what they are showing. If a 02 sensor is shorted to ground, it will go all the way lean (0.02 volts) and will tell the PCM to add more fuel. check both 02's, both BLMs.

If your MAF sensor is in bad shape, it could be telling the PCM to go rich. the MAF along with a couple other sensors control the A/F ratio. Watch the BLM's with the MAF connected, then watch them while having the MAF disconnected. If the BLMs change dramatically, then the MAF is faulty.

You really need to monitor your engine with a data scanner to help pin point the problem and to see if only one bank is rich or both banks. If only one bank is going rich, 90% chance it is a leaking injector. post back your readings if you can.

 

I disconnected the MAF before I started it this morning, it still took a while to start but the BLM's stayed at 128 while driving around.

In freescan is the L and R integrator the BLM for that bank?

I also logged the no MAF run with TTS and will log another with MAF and put them on later.

 

I have the two TTS logs, with MAF and without, without seems to only have a couple of spots where it is rich. With MAF is rich the majority of the time. Also I am noticing the right bank ocasionally is richer than the left (by about 1 percent).


Thanks for the help

 

Check the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the fuel rails. Pull the vacumn line off the regulator and see if it has fuel in it. I had the same problem a few months ago.

 

yeah be sure to check that too. they tend to go out alot.

As long as the BLMs are within 2-3 % difference from each other, thats normal. they are hardly ever a perfect match.

your integrator is the short term fuel trim = it adjusts quickly to the 02 sensor, it is always flippin alot.

your BLM is the long term memory of a bank. thats the one you want to pay attention to. you want your BLMs to be in the range of 122-134. 128 is perfect.

L = Left integrator is for the driver side bank only and
R = Right integrator is for the passenger side bank only

MAF connected. Record what the BLMs are doing at idle, and on the freeway at a steady RPM. at least 5 minutes of each. post back what number they sit on the most. repeat with MAF off.

on the scanner:
you should have a left BLM = bank #1
and a right BLM = bank#2