joker454

I'm having the exact same problem, it started right after we changed the injectors from stockers to Accels. We've checked the injectors and they don't leak. I've given up on the problem and just live with it ;( I pity the poor valet drivers though who try starting it after its been sitting for an hour or two...

superal

Today I discovered that I can shut off the car after I let the fans come on and still am able to start it 5 minutes later. If it sits longer than that (30-45 minutes) then it wont start. It will start after a couple hours though. Yea wtf is going on here. Must be a sensor going bad but which one?

$hawn

A lot of us who posted have 93's too, My IAC is clean, and so is the harness, I might test out the temp sensor in the water pump, it just seems temp related only but I maybe wrong, I either have to start with in 5-8 mins. or so, or like 2-3 hours later.

superal

Let us know what you find out. I wont have time to diagnose until this weekend but it'd nice to not have to diagnose if I dont have to. Thanks

$hawn

Ok I finally got a scanner, and something I noticed, or something that has a correlation, is that when the engine is dead cold, the battery voltage before starting the car was about 11.3 or so and it starts up fine, but then a drive around for awhile, turn the car off, go back out there 30 mins. later the battery voltage is like 10.6. Why would the voltage be up when the car has sat a week, but down after i drive it? The alternator and battery are new, all connections are clean and tight, and the alternator charges it up fine at about 13.8 volts or so.

faded93bird

take the vacummeline off the fuel pressure regulator and see if thats what is leaking

mine had all the same symtoms and it drove me nutz too changed plugs,and coil to no avail

the diaphram gos bad and will start leaking right into the intake

new regulator 60 bucks
haveing your sanity returned to you in one peice price-less

hope this helps
faded

$hawn

I wish it was that easy, I'v checked the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator and it's not leaking.

faded93bird

While the car is runing ?

the fuel would only spray out then the motor was running

pull the line off on the regulator side too i didnt notice any leakage till i did that

$hawn

I havent checked it while it's running, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with the battery voltage, cause it's fine cold, just not when it's warm, but i'll check that anyways, to make sure it's kosher.

shoebox

If you are getting 13+v at all times when the engine is running, but down to 10-something volts at times just from the battery (not during cranking), I would have that "new" battery tested. It does not sound like it is healthy.

badass383

On a cool day when it has sat for a while and you know it will fire right up, try heating up the device you suspect with a common hair dryer. Use your hand to check temp and when it just about too hot to touch, try cranking it. If it does start, shut it right down, and move to something else.

The only item in the ignition that is hard to get to is the opti. You can reach it somewhat from the bottom. Ramps may help. Dont forget the PCM up by the firewall.

If something is bad, hope it's something cheap

badass383

If your running the car and the voltage is lower than when you started, either the charging system is not putting out or your battery is not taking the charge properly.

The most common cause and the most overlooked is bad grounds either at the engine or the body/frame. check out all the connections and be sure they are clean. This low voltage problem could be putting the PCM in a brown out type of problem.

Only really have 3 things to check, alternator, battery and wiring.

I'de agree with shoebox, sounds like a crappy battery. Don't buy them from advance or autozone.

$hawn

I dont see how it could be charged good and sit for a week, start right up, and then drive around a little bit, turn it off, come back out in an hour and have trouble, it may not be the charging/battery system. The only ground I havent cleaned is the main battery ground on the pass. motor mount, it's tight though. I think I need to scan some more. Thanks for the help guys.

superal

The ECT monitors the engine temp and contols how much voltage the spark uses. I think this is what's wrong with my car. It shuts itself off right when it reaches 180*. It will not start again until it's cooled off a bit. I'm thinking a bad ect sensor isn't allowing enough voltage needed for a good spark to start the engine. Just my theory. Am I right?

MadMav

We have this problem with one of our vans here at work. Replaced all fuel components and it still did it. Finally we found out that air was getting into the fuel feed line and it takes few days for it to bleed off. Still don't know how it gets in there though.

Mav