My 93 doesnt catch good when you start it when it's warm, but will fire right up dead cold. Basically after a week of sitting it'll fire right up, but if I drive it around for like 30-45 mins. and then wait like an hour to drive it somewhere again, i'll go to start it and it doesnt really fire good i'll turn the key quick and it'll barely catch. I let the pump prime up pressure, and it turns over fast. Fuel filter is fairly new, everything ignition wise is new but the opti, and basically every other part has been cleaned or new, fuel pressure checks out ok. What this sound like to you guys? Thanks

 

Could be heat soak at the starter, except that you say it turns over "really fast."

 

Thats what I was thinking, would a heat soaked starter turn over fairly quick though? I might try to make a shield for it and try that.

 

My car does the same thing... except it doesn't matter how many times I prime the fuel pump. If it has been sitting it fires right up, or if I drive the car get out for a minute and get right back in it starts good. Any other time and I have to turn it over for 5-10 seconds before it starts!!! Someone help makes my excellent running LT1 seem like its soggy to anyone around!

Mine is a 93 to I wonder if it is a year specific thing

 

I usually have this happen whenever im moving the car up through the staging lanes at the track...has to turn over a few times to start, and on a hot day with the car warm when it starts it sounds sick for a sec. or two. Cold day or cold start it starts almost instantly.

Aaron

 

I have a 94 and have the same problem. Sits for a few hours fires right up, drive a little and turn it off and I have to crank on it for 5-10 seconds and then it fires up. If anyone finds out what this is I would love to know. Do you guys have headers on your cars because this started after I put headers on and replaced my opti, but it also sat all winter in the garage without running.

 

See thats the thing mine dont have headers(stock manifolds), and it's doin this, I dont have to crank it 5-10 seconds thought either, sometimes i'll give it a quick turn of the key and it'll barly catch, then there has been a time or two where it didnt catch and it would start on the second try after a full second or two of cranking. My battery and starter are new. I'm guessing it's heat soak from something?

 

Yes mine has headers that are not coated. I always assumed that this was just from heat soak and a very warm charge of air initially going through the intake.

Aaron

 

I had this as well.Cold outside,fire right up,drive during the day,park it,eat lunch or go into a store,acted unatural,and required constant holding down on the ignition key till it finaly catches.Then I had the famous intake manifold oil leak thing fixed,and that almost took care of that thing.But one thing that really makes a difference,and maybe it's just me,but I run a colder spark plug,and I did the A.C. Delco plat plug thing ,and noticed hard starting all the time when it's hot outside,that's when I use the NGK's,I have less problems starting and rough idle is all but gone.But before anybody spend tons of money on anything,I would replace the coil wire,I do mine every 6 months,but this works for me.When my MSD coil wire bit the dust,I went back to A.C. Delco coil wires,and I'm a happy camper now.Sorry for the long post.My02(ignition related?)

 

Mine kinda had the same simptoms until i changed out the coil and opti. It starts right up now.


Chris

 

I wonder if the igniton control moduel could be acting up when ever it gets too warm, but you'd think if that was the case it might not start at all.

 

mine started doing this today. I let it sit for 3 hours and it starts like it usually does. After 30-45 minutes it doesnt start at all. Just turns over and over like normal but doesnt fire. What did you guys do to fix your problem? Oh, this is the 3rd day out of storage for me.

 

I think a scan tool would help. Something might be seen happening with the IAC, the temp sensor in the water pump or a number of other things.

 

Would a scan tool show anything different than sticking the paperclip in the holes on a '93? I'm not showing an ses light or anything either. Do scan tools show actual #'s of various things?

 

A real "scan" tool will show all the sensor inputs the pcm (ecm in case of the 1993) is receiving. It has to be more than a "code reader", which is all the data link connector can do for you by flashing out the codes. For this kind of problem, it might take a bit of knowledge about expected readings to be able to pinpoint anything (if something shows up).