Hi folks, I'm having a hard start issue.

A month ago it would start instantly like it was just waiting for you. Now though, on a cold start the car takes about 5 seconds of cranking to start. Most of the time once it fires, it fires right up, but occasionally it'll bog for another second before idling normally.

If I shut it off, it will start right back up without a problem. If I let it sit for 20+ minutes however, it will again be harder to start. The car runs strong once it starts. I don't feel/notice any power lost, I was able to pull away from stock 94 down a highway (though not by much!) and it idles as normal. I do seem to be losing a little gas mileage in the range of 1-2 mpg.

I checked the intake, no leaks. I don't see a vacuum leak anywhere so I don't think it's in the air system.

I'm thinking leaky fuel injector flooding a cylinder or two? I've read that can be checked by removing the fuel rails and setting ignition to on (without starting) and looking for leaks. I followed the Chilton for removing the fuel rail (pull 4 bolts and remove!) but it's stuck freaking hard. I'm worried if I pry it I'll damage it. Is there some trick to pulling it out that I'm missing?

Other possibilities for the hard start issue if this doesn't pan out? Plugs/wires I'm guessing?

 

The fuel rail will pop up. The 8 o-rings have been in there forever and will undoubtedly be stubborn. But before you go doing that, go out and buy a $30 fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure. Your fuel pump could be going bad - a hard start condition is commonly attributed to a failing fuel pump.

 

Yeah I got em to pop out with enough grunt and leverage. I'm just of the opinion If I can **** it up, I will! So I like to double check with smarter people before I force stuff. once they came out they go back in and out easy.

I didn't have anything leaking. Couldn't see anything coming out, and let them rest on some tissue that stayed dry. Figured I'd try that first, since it's well... free and I have all the tools for it.

Alrighty I'll try the fuel pressure since injectors don't seem to be the issue. Gonna do the plugs too, since I'm not sure how long they've been in there, and I have a set in the tool box.

Also I should have mentioned. When I pop off the gas cap it get a pretty big whoosh sound. It's always done that though, so I didn't think anything of it. If that gives you guys any clues.

Anyways, I'm off to harbor freight for a pressure tester, I'll see how that goes.

 

Sorry, had a hard time finding a working pressure tester.. first one leaked, second had a flexed face keeping the needle from working.

When I hit the ignition to ON, the fuel pressure spikes to 50psi then bleeds out to 0 over 5-10 seconds.

When idling pressure sits at 38-40 psi.

Not sure what to do from here.

 

I have the same problem and it happened after I replaced my injectors with a set of recon FORD SVO 26lb injectors. I also checked the pressure and it was good. I'm going back in to check for a pinched O-ring when I get back from training. If not then maybe one of the injectors is leaking as well.

What's the best way to check injectors for leakage ? The place I bought them from came with a flow sheet, etc so this really stumps me. I hope you figure it out before me as I probably have the same problem. Trust me, it's not the fuel pump........I swapped two and an opti before I had a mechanic replace my fuel pressure regulator as it was backfiring badly and running terrible. It also had a bad computer that got fried somehow.


It is definitely something to do with the injectors. I'll bet my next paycheck on it. How did your O-rings look ? If they weren't pinched than I can only assume mine aren't and it's a leaking injector.

 

I've been told you can check the injectors simply by pulling up the fuel rail and leaving the injectors attached. Then set the key to ON (don't start it!) and see if anything comes out.I put tissue underneath all the injectors too. It stayed dry so I ruled out the injectors. You mean the O-ring on the bottom of the injectors? Mine looked okay, though a few did pop off. Like I said, they were still smooth and flexible, so I just put them back on.

Here's the article from shbox. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.htm...essure_testing I love that website to death.

I tried shbox.com's section on Fuel Pressure Testing. I clamped both lines with vice grips but it still loses pressure.

Any idea what to try next? I dunno what to do.

 

Was the fuel pressure measurement at idle WITH or WITHOUT the vacuum compensation line attached to the fuel pressure regulator?

When you pulled the vacuum line off, was there a strong smell of fuel in the vacuum line, or possibly wet fuel?

A missing or pinched O-ring on the bottom of the injector would not leak fuel. It would allow air to leak into the intake runner. Its the top O-ring that seals against the fuel pressure.

When you start it, put the accel pedal on the floor BEFORE you turn the key to start, and keep the pedal on the floor while it cranks. That puts the PCM in clear flood mode, and if it starts easier, would tend to confirm fuel flooding. Alternatively, before turning the key to start, turn it to run and back off several times. Then try and start it normally (foot off pedal). If it starts easier, that would indicate the rapidly dropping pressure is what is causing the extended start.

 

Fuel pressure at idle was with vacuum line attached.

No sign of fuel in the vacuum line.

Flooring the accelerator prevented the engine from starting. Cranked it twice ~10 seconds like that, refused to start. After releasing the pedal, still took another several seconds of cranking to start.

flicking the ignition on and off in rapid succession did improve starting.

 

I haven't tried flicking the ignition but mine was the same when holding the pedal to the floor. We have the same problem and it is def something with the injectors. Like I said, my car ran fine till I replaced them.