Had My Knock Retard Programmed OUT
I would never do that to my car. One batch of bad gas and you get to rebuild a motor! The only exception would be a solid roller, since I don't believe that you can get around the false knock setup by the solid roller harmonics.
i did it to mine cause even though i am computer comtrolled im tryin to get as cloe to a normal engine as possible, in the good old days, there were no computers and knock sensors and all that junk, junk a motor doin its thing
I did this on my 95 after installing a cam and 1.6RRs. When we were dyno tuning it, we kept seeing 9 degrees of retard from like 4600-5200 every run. We tried backing the timing way off and it still kept showing up. Since I was already running with 93 octane and it was a fairly cool day, AND since it occurred in a very specific range on every run, we figured it was false knock. So, we set knock retard to zero for that range. I ran the car like that for another 2-3 years and did lots of hard street driving, autox, roadcourse and 1/4 mile passes and never had any problems. HOWEVER, I would NOT recommend turning off knock retard altogether as it could lead to serious damage. In my case, this was back before everyone found out about the LT4 knock module upgrade. About a year before I got rid of the 95, I installed the LT4 knock module and reenabled knock retard. Results, no knock retard with the LT4 module.
My advise, first determine if what you are getting is actual knock or false knock. You can do this by running some 100 octane unleaded and making some WOT runs while watching with a scan tool/software. Then, if you haven't done so already, try installing the LT4 knock module. Check for knock retard again. If you are still getting knock retard try desensetizing the knock sensor (search the forum, I'm sure there's a post on how to do it). One more thing, just because your PCM shows a significant number in the Knock Count field, it does not nescessarily mean you are getting lots of knock retard. On a 7 minute test/data logging session last night my knock count increased by 2300, but the only real knock retard was mainly at part throttle or at shifts. There were only 4 times out of a total of 13 WOT runs that showed significant retard, and even then it dissapeared rather quickly.
Anyway, the knock sensor and module are there for a reason, be really sure that disabling them is what you want to do. I'd hate to see you get some 91 octane during the middle of summer and get in a race with a Mustang and damage a piston or two.
My advise, first determine if what you are getting is actual knock or false knock. You can do this by running some 100 octane unleaded and making some WOT runs while watching with a scan tool/software. Then, if you haven't done so already, try installing the LT4 knock module. Check for knock retard again. If you are still getting knock retard try desensetizing the knock sensor (search the forum, I'm sure there's a post on how to do it). One more thing, just because your PCM shows a significant number in the Knock Count field, it does not nescessarily mean you are getting lots of knock retard. On a 7 minute test/data logging session last night my knock count increased by 2300, but the only real knock retard was mainly at part throttle or at shifts. There were only 4 times out of a total of 13 WOT runs that showed significant retard, and even then it dissapeared rather quickly.
Anyway, the knock sensor and module are there for a reason, be really sure that disabling them is what you want to do. I'd hate to see you get some 91 octane during the middle of summer and get in a race with a Mustang and damage a piston or two.
Originally posted by 96YenkoClone
i did it to mine cause even though i am computer comtrolled im tryin to get as cloe to a normal engine as possible, in the good old days, there were no computers and knock sensors and all that junk, junk a motor doin its thing
i did it to mine cause even though i am computer comtrolled im tryin to get as cloe to a normal engine as possible, in the good old days, there were no computers and knock sensors and all that junk, junk a motor doin its thing
Technology is at your disposal....use it!
Besides, a properly setup knock sensor will cost you no power, but it could save a motor or warn you of a possible problem.
Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
I would never do that to my car. One batch of bad gas and you get to rebuild a motor! The only exception would be a solid roller, since I don't believe that you can get around the false knock setup by the solid roller harmonics.
I would never do that to my car. One batch of bad gas and you get to rebuild a motor! The only exception would be a solid roller, since I don't believe that you can get around the false knock setup by the solid roller harmonics.
Originally posted by dreamer1q
HELLO....Mustangs have run like this for years. They dont get rebuilt at the drop of a hat either. If done properly it is not a problem. I have done it, and I was recommended to do it by my dyno tuner. Not as big a deal as people make it out to be.
HELLO....Mustangs have run like this for years. They dont get rebuilt at the drop of a hat either. If done properly it is not a problem. I have done it, and I was recommended to do it by my dyno tuner. Not as big a deal as people make it out to be.
Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
I didn't mention anything about motors getting rebuilt "at the drop of a hat". It would pretty much have to be bad luck, but the point of my reply was that knock sensor circuits are already on our cars and ready to go. If set up properly, they cost NO power, AND can save a motor. Granted, it's probably not a common occurance, but why take a risk if you don't have to?
I didn't mention anything about motors getting rebuilt "at the drop of a hat". It would pretty much have to be bad luck, but the point of my reply was that knock sensor circuits are already on our cars and ready to go. If set up properly, they cost NO power, AND can save a motor. Granted, it's probably not a common occurance, but why take a risk if you don't have to?
LOL at the mustang comment
I understand it could save me, but I am a fan of the way they use to make cars and would have gone carbuerated and everything else with mine if I didnt have to pass emissions. I take very good care of my car and monitor everything, I had the programmer take off my low oil level sensor, my oil pressure sender to use a auto gauge, i also took off the knock sensor and module, as well as the EGR and A.I.R, pondered taking off A/C but didnt want to deal with finding belt to fit. Everything possible that I could dump and still pass emissions, I dumped
i did it... zeroed out the timing and advanced it a few degrees.. Car runs strong. Im sure its not knock cuz the engine would be toast by now. Been running it like this for a few weeks now.
Gonna dyno tune it soon though.
Gonna dyno tune it soon though.
my car is currently getting up to 7* of knock retard and were not sure why........have an lt4 km and pcmforless tune...........gonna try putting in some 100octance and see if it goes away.........if the knock is still there, then it is false knock and i can program out the sensor right?
Originally posted by got_hp?
my car is currently getting up to 7* of knock retard and were not sure why........have an lt4 km and pcmforless tune...........gonna try putting in some 100octance and see if it goes away.........if the knock is still there, then it is false knock and i can program out the sensor right?
my car is currently getting up to 7* of knock retard and were not sure why........have an lt4 km and pcmforless tune...........gonna try putting in some 100octance and see if it goes away.........if the knock is still there, then it is false knock and i can program out the sensor right?


