LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

h/c and tune choice

Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #1  
jbanderson's Avatar
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h/c and tune choice

95 z28 m6 bone stock 115k miles

oil pressure is reading around 15-20 at idle when warm i that means anything?


anyways, im not sure if I need to have the bottom end rebuilt or not, I only drive the car on weekends and just want some extra power to beat my buddies stock ls1..... id like to beat him pretty good though...

Ive been looking at the le2 heads and a 847 cam, longtubes, and 4.10's.

My main concern is tuning, I have a laptop and could try myself or do a mail order. There is nowere around here (jackson, TN) that does any kind of tuning and no dynos.

If I was to tune myself would i need a wideband?
How good would a mail order tune be with heads/cam?



what injectors and fuel pump would i ned also?

thanks i know i will probly get told to search but im not good on the computer and to impatient
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
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If you are doing LE2 heads, why not use the matching cam?
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #3  
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You can use the stock bottom end as long as it's been taken care of and not consuming oil or otherwise broken.
A leak-down test is a good way to make sure the rings are sealing.

Le2 heads give you plenty of options for cams. I had a set on my stock bottom end.
I suggest talking to Lloyd and having him order you a custom grind that meets your needs.
The 847 makes good peak numbers (bragging rights), but really falls short down low compared to a custom grind with modern lobes.
You really need a broad torque curve to accelerate the vehicle, even if that means slightly lower peak HP numbers.
http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html
(972) 617-5671
nighttrain66@msn.com

As for a mail-order tune, I didn't have much luck with the tune PCMForless did for me,
but Ed Wright (Fastchip.com) did a great job. He's done enough of these that the
mailorder tune comes out very close to what you would have found with a full dyno-tune.

I had a 22x/23x cam (at the time, it was known as an LE1HL) and put down 390rwhp though
a 4000 stall with an older set of LE2 heads on a stock bottom end. The newer stuff flows even better.
Should be plenty to spank your friend's stock LS1.

Last edited by user 647483; Feb 15, 2009 at 02:06 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #4  
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custom grind cam, whatever le heads your wallet can afford and have it tuned by someone. They play around with it yourself.

Rebuild the motor first, it sounds like its in so so shape and it will be a pain it the *** if it goes after the HC install.
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 04:57 PM
  #5  
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well if I rebuild it I wanna go with forged pistons and probly stonger rods, I dont know how strong the crank is but from what I have read the pistons will not not hold with alot of nitrous and I have read that the rods will not hold with anything over 6300rpm.... ....

but the last cam on the list of that link looks good to me. I want a choppy as hell idle. I would probly go lower than 4.10 gears if I could find some. I dont really have a budget but I really want to paint it after I do this.
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #6  
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From: Encinal, Tx
Originally Posted by jbanderson
well if I rebuild it I wanna go with forged pistons and probly stonger rods, I dont know how strong the crank is but from what I have read the pistons will not not hold with alot of nitrous and I have read that the rods will not hold with anything over 6300rpm.... ....

but the last cam on the list of that link looks good to me. I want a choppy as hell idle. I would probly go lower than 4.10 gears if I could find some. I dont really have a budget but I really want to paint it after I do this.
if u rebuild it i'd go with forged pistons, forged H-beam rods. I've heard the cranks are very strong but if u want to stroke it get a good stroker kit. I've actually taken my 96 Z to 6300rpm with stock bottom end an heads. Pistons will hold about a 150 shot on N2O.
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