check, stuff i already have
1. AI P+P heads
2. 58mm tb
3. 30lb SVO injectors
4. rocker studs, roller rockers, guide plates
5. 'R' lifters
6. NGK spark plugs
7. gasket set
8. ARP head bolts
9. coolant
10. oil and filter
still debating on the timing chain issue, gotta order the cam also still, i'm gonna let JoeO handle that one
pushrods will be the last thing i order after i check the length
what bolts will need replaced?

i know i'm missing some stuff what is it tho? bandaids, patience lol but what else?

Steve

 

Are they ported factory LT1 heads? If so, you know the only guide plates you can use are GM Performance, right? LT1's have .050" wider valve spacing than typical SBC's, so nothing else will work. I found this out when I did mine...And after a call to COMP Cams tech line. Isky makes a set of adjustable plates, but they have to be welded once they're adjusted. The GMPP plates bolt right on.

Are you doing headers at the same time? If so, get some good header gaskets.

I went back with a new stock '93 style chain on mine.

Depending on the cam size, you might want to look into an AFR "Hydra-Rev" kit

Coolant crossover (back of heads) o-rings

Not doing electric water pump?

I'm sure I'll think of more

Frank

 

i used SBC guideplates without any problems?

 

Frank,
i have 2 sets of Felpro header gaskets, the ones on the car now and a set that came with the gasket package

i think the rev-kit wont be needed, i ordered the good lifters COMP 'R' 875's they should work just fine

o-rings for the coolant crossover tube, i dont understand that? thought most people just ended up cutting theirs and then using some rubber hose or tube and clamps to reconnect?

right now i'm leaning towards a CSI pump and a double roller chain....still deciding tho

yes they are stock casting heads
the guide plates are the ones CMS sent to me along with the pro mag rr's? i really hope i dont have to get new ones, i know they are cheap, just a pain in the *** to order some more ya know, could you thow a part# in this thread for the GMPP plates so i can search, in case i need to get those

how about assembly lubricant, what kind do i need?
also dont i need some sealant for the back of the intake manifold?

thanks
Steve

 

I used GMPP plates.. they said SBC and said nothing about it being an LT1 only item.

 

Did you bother to check the roller alignment on your valve tips? The Fact is regular SBC plates are wrong. I lived this nightmare, because I actually checked the alignment. On atleast 8 ogf the rockers, the roller tips were only touching a liitle more than half of the valve tips. After ALOT of research, I found the differences in the LT1 and regular SBC heads. COMP told me that they don't make LT1 plates BECAUSE of the unique valve spacing, but they are working on producing a set.
I didn't take anyone's word for it...I knew something was wrong as soon as I tried to bolt the rockers on.

A best case scenario for your impending failure will be a few broken pushrods or rockers. I've also seen it wear out the rollers on the rockers. If it lives past that, you'll wear out the valveguides prematurely from the drastic side load the valves are taking. Don't take my word for it...Pull a valvecover and check your alignment.

Frank

 

The GM part # is 14011051. They come as singles, so you'll need 8 of that number. The whole set cost me less than $20. These plates are for Vortec heads, which apparantly are the only other SBC head that shares the LT1 valve spacing. Any Chevy dealership can order them for you.

OK...I did my coolant crossover tube the RIGHT way...LOL

I'm still not sold on COMP R lifters...My stock replacements seem to work just as well.

Roller cams don't need break-in lube...Just use plain 10W30 motor oil.

I like my CSI pump, but it is a PITA to install...Hope you like grinding aluminum...LOL

Frank

 

thats why i asked about the crossover tube, how did you do it?
what about ARP lube for the rocker studs and head bolts is that needed?
and the intake gasket sealer what is it at a parts store?
the cam, just use regular oil for the install and run the motor for about 30min then change the oil again back to the regular synthetic

thanks
Steve

 

Even if you cut the crossover tube, you still need the seals because they go on each side of the banjo where it is bolted to the head. Now, if you use something other than the stock tube, you probably won't need them.

 

It took 2 of us to get my heads off...With the tube still bolted to them. They went back on with the tube already bolted on too.

I used ARP lube and sealer wherever they recommended I use it (Head bolts, rocker studs, etc.) The bottom head bolts use lube...The inner bolts that protrude into water jackets use sealer.

I used GM's "GMS" sealant on my intake front and back. It's available at any dealership.


Frank

 

You'll want to put some lube on the cam.

 

Just out of curiousity, what kind of "lube" are you talking about? You shouldn't use any kind of cam break in lube on a roller cam. Why should you? A roller lifter doesn't "wear" to a camshaft like a flat tappet lifter does.

Using break-in lube in a roller cam motor is doing nothing but putting break-in lube in your oiling system (and through your other engine bearings). Is it really wise to put something with grit in it through engine bearings that are 90,000+ miles old, if it's not needed? It's my opinion that this is what causes alot of bearing failures after cam swaps.

Frank

 

Everyone I ever talked to used cam lube on there's. Not much, just a little. So you just put motor oil on yours and swapped it in?

 

what kind of rockers if they are self aligning i was told you do not need guide plates

 

Yup..Plain old 10W30.

Hasn't anyone else ever noticed that COMP doesn't supply break-in lube with their roller cams, but they do with all flat tappets?

Frank