i thought about making one like the sts kit looks a little easier since i cant weld

 

If you want to keep it as a daily driver I would vote for forced induction. You can keep all the drivability of the stock cam and still make over 400 RWHP pretty easy. As far as turbo vs blower, its really just personal preference, the turbo might be slightly more efficient, but either one will make plenty of power, and if you're only looking for 400 to 500 RWHP that goal is easy to achieve with either. I like the blower on street tires because the power is more linear and you can modulate the throttle to control boost more, turbos are more efficient and will make a little more power in an equal aplication, but the boost seems to be either on or off kinda like nitrous.

 

Ha, talk to someone who has built their own, to do it right you are going to want tig welded stainless tubing. The stainless tubing is pretty pricy and a tig welder is at least a grand along with learning how to use the thing, which he said he can't weld, if you have a few months and a nice welder yeah you can maybe do it, but i think this guy is looking for more of a bolt on and go setup. BTW as soon as i graduate and get a house i will be developing my own hot parts hopefully, we'll see.

 

Start with the h/c then add the procharger....You cant go wrong

 

well going to buy a used kit and run 8 psi intercooled with a walbro pump and 42 pound injectors

 

A stock shortblock will not live under boost, plain and simple. As soon as the blower goes on, you need to start saving for a new motor. Been there, done that.

 

Listen to fireman!!!!!!

 

why put a blower on a only run 6-8lbs? Especially since that pressure is eventually blow the motor?
There are guys who have had a motor last 10-15k, hell even 40k since the blower was installed but they are far and few. The majority of guys blow a hole in a piston or something else. So if you want that blower throw in the costs for forged pistons and rods. Then it will be able to run 12-13lbs and be somewhat reliable. 11's would be easy
The na setup will cost less but won't have the potential of a blown car. But if you went le2 or AI the equilant you should be good for around 400rwhp and high 11's low 12's. Go with llyod or phil, you pick. good luck

 

It seems like the popular opinion is to do a h/c first, build a forged bottom end, and then add boost last. So what compression ratio would you go with to make decent power before you add the boost?

 

its not like ill bee at 8 lbs all the time when i drive around town it only see 3000 rpm nothin above that that would be like 4 lbs right

 

I killed mine on 6psi.

And to think you will stay out of boost is crazy. Its addictive, especially if you have'nt had it before.

 

how lond did you have it on 6psi and was it intercoled or not did you tune it and upgrade the fuel system not trying to say you did anything wrong but just want to know all you had done because from ive heard that as long as you tune and get the required fuel and avoid detionation it will work fine.

 

You will have to pull so much timing to avoid detonation on pump gas that it almost isn't worth it. Also, the PCM can only pull like 10 degress for knock retard, if the motor needs more to control detonation, it won't get it. My fuel system was upgraded, I ran boost sensitive timing retard setup, and ran plugs 2 steps colder. The motor went south before I got it dyno tuned, only 2 months.

My motor went south because my knock sensor went out and the PCM wasn't pulling any at times when it needed to pull alot. I ran 6psi for 2 months and fought tuning issues the entire time. My motor didn't blow or anything, I just started getting quite a bit of blowby(smoke coming out of oil filler).

Basically, it will be fine if everything is 100% perfect all of the time. The first time it isn't, your stock cast pistons will let you know

 

I have to agree with that 100%, boost doesnt kill the pistons, detonation does. I think the reason most short blocks are killed is a lack of tuning. The Boost timing controls that come with the kits are crap, and I would never depend on one of those to keep my engine out of detonation.

 

thats why i would get a tunewithin a week of the install,so is there anyone whosa run a blower for a while and not had problems.