What all is involed in doing this and what are some pro's & con's of it.


Thanks Sean

 

You can't lock the torque converter in first gear, or so this is true for the 700R4... which I would assume is the same for the 4L60-E.

As far as the second and third gear, it makes the shifts much harder, almost like flat-shifting a manual transmission. Stock 4L60's are not designed to withstand the pressure that is induced from a hard 2-3 locked shift. Don't get me wrong, it'll last a while. I did the mod on my '85 Z28 (305 TPI) and it worked like a charm. Never got to test how long it would last on a 165,000 mile 700R4 because I wrecked it, but for the meanwhile, it was cool to squall the 2-3 shift in a 305.

Prolly the first component to give would be the front-pump of the transmission, or possibly ring the bolts off the torque-converter-to-flexplate.

As to how to rig this mod up... on the 700R4's, all you had to do was tap into the wire going to the Lock-up solenoid with a 2-pole/3-posistion switch. Controled by a simple ground. It takes a mighty good switch, such as a gold-contact switch, because any least bit of ground would lock the converter. I had my switch where I could choose "[LOCKED - ECM Control - UNLOCKED]".

The same setup should be similar to the 4L60-E, prolly just a different wire color.

 

I guess I should of been more plain. I think I want to lock it up in 3rd gear only rigth after it shifts lock the converter when at the track. I just think it would pull harder without all the slipage.

 

I'd like to hear some more opinions on this as well.

 

The common method is indeed to manually lock the converter once in 3rd gear at the track. However, I wouldn't suggest doing this unless your converter was built to take the punishment of a WOT lock-up. You'd need a multi-disk lockup converter such as what Vigliante, Yank...and a few others offer.

 

I have a Midwest 3,200 stall with billet stator and anti bolloing plates I think the converter will be fine.


Does anyone know what wire to ground? Thanks Sean

 

I think you'd better talk with Midwest. It's your lock up clutches you need to be worried about...not your anti-balooning plate or stator....but it's your converter, your call. I've seen way too many clutches go south cause they were locked up under WOT when they weren't designed to do it. When you order a converter, you need to tell them you intend to lock it up under WOT.

 

Most converters will not tolerate lockup at WOT, even with a relatively stock motor. They are not designed for it. I hear that PI is making a converter with extra lockup clutch material designed to lockup at WOT. I dunno how much hp it will handle though. I think 4drLT4 is correct in urging you to be cautious.

Rich Krause

 

Thanks for the heads up guys I will give them a call and see what they say..


Sean