Alright i just got a 58 mm tb and didnt put it on yet but i have a stock MAF, im going to buy a granatelli but right now funds are EXTREMELY tight. Is it alright or worth it to descreen my stock one... ive heard mixed feelings but I would like to get some opinions. Im going to be getting bigger injectors this winter as well as a heads/cam setup so ill need to be able to have my MAF calibrated so ill need a granatelli but for right now with a car with only the mods in my sig.. adding this tb is it a good idea (for the well being of the motor) and the perf gain (im not expecting a half of a second off of the 1/4 mile like ricers would ) but let me know what you guys thing... THANKS!

 

dont touch it. leave it alone i think it flows enough air to support 600+ hp. theres no reason to mess with it. and if you do it will be hard to tune later on down the road.

check the "want to buy" section and look at how many people are wanting the stock MAF.

the only reason to change it at all is if the one you have takes a dump on you.

 

alright thanks... so even when i get new injectors i dont have to change to an aftermarket.... can you calibrate a stock MAF?

 

you can calibrate for any MAF. but there is still no need to calibrate for it with the new injectors just get the pcm programed for the new new injectors and the maf is ok.

the pcm just reads the maf for how much air is coming in. and makes adjustments on the pulse width of the injectors. telling to close faster or open longer. but sence the pcm is using the injector to change the a/f the pcm has to be prgramed for the larger injectors.

the pcm is looking for a 14.7 A/F ratio under normal driving coditions. i dont how much you know about progrming the pcm, but the pcm is looking for 128 on the blms which ot us means 14.7.

and yes you can calibrate a stock maf. but its not needed unless the blms are off at idle, if they are you just go in and tell the pcm that the car has more or less air coming then it really does, if the blms are above 128 that means the pcm is trying to put more fuel to it because it thinks its lean. and anything below 128 its showing rich. the ideal place for the long term blms are a 128.

 

alright great thanks alot... i forget that im driving a computer on wheels, a friend of mine has a 5.0 so hes always telling me u gotta do this and u gotta do that but i keep forgetting he doesnt have a pcm and doesnt have knowledge past stangs, ive heard u need the lt1 edit to reprogram and a laptop.. i believe thats it

 

my advice on the tunning program is tuner cat at www.tunercat.com becuase it is not vin lock. you can only use lt1 edit on one car unless you pay extra per car. and lt1 edit can not open bin files from tunercat. but tunercat can open lt1edit file and you can load lt1edit files straight in the pcm. tunercat is not vin locked.

raed the requirment from the laptop on there site. it doesnt have to be the latest and greatest thing. and the cable to conect the laptop to the pcm www.akmcables.com

and if you want to start out with a mail order tune contact ion at wwwmadz28.com he can work maracles through the mail. an dis a great guy. and cheap

 

ive heard of that tunercat and had the chance to buy one but i thought it was useless.. ahhh oh well. thanks alot for the help... i appreciate it

 

Gutting it / descreening may or may not give you a slight improvement. If you do it, be careful.

 

Yo. This response it not directed to you, necessarily, but just something I would like to add:

I have read many posts here where the theme "bigger is better" seems to be the rule rather than the exception.

I see where you are putting in larger injectors, larger TB, and are thinking about enlarging your MAF.

I just want to remind some of you that "bigger" is not necessarily "better". I do this so that you can perhaps save some $$ for those things that will show some improvement.

You can put in a "big"cam "big" flowing heads, "Big" injectors, "Big" TB," Big" MAF, etc. And someone who is running smaller mods that are well balanced and carefully selected is going to hand you your A$$. JMHO

 

I have bored and polished 13 MAFs so far in the past 2 weeks... each one saw an improvement with no SES light. If someone wants to dyno their car with a before and after, i will do theirs for free.

I think it makes a huge difference on an otherwise stock car and if you read my post on the IAT thread, you can see the dynamics of why it works.

When you go to a larger inlet ducting and MAF, you are slowing the velocity and increasing the pressure. If you do this, you will have a greater amount of air in the intake when the throttle is open and when the cylinder pulls pulls in the A/F. Its proven that a High seeks a low. So using smaller inlet ducting increases velosity, but lowers the pressure. Doing this will give you a smaller charge in the intake.

 

Just my opinion, but you still can be TOO big or TOO small.

E.G., if your exhaust port is too small it may be a restriction to the spent gases to exit quickly enough to allow the cyl to fill completely with new mixture. If it is too large, the velocity is slowed which may also hinder efficient exhausting.

When it comes to the MAF and TB: the MAF is a sensor and its size doesn't have a whole lot to do with its function. It just reads the pressure and tells the PCM how much fuel to squirt and when to lite it. Obviously, if the MAF is not large enough to accommodate the needs of the engine, you need to make it larger. If however, it is large enough, then making it larger than needed is not going to pack your intake in an induction system.

Same with the TB. If too small it restricts the air needed by the engine. If larger than needed, it is a waste of money, since a N/A engine is not going to induct any more than it needs. A 58MM TB is for the most part overkill unless your setup can use the additional air.JMHO