I finally decided to get my oil tested and I'm not exactly sure what to make of the results.

Take a look and tell me what you think. I've been spraying the juice during this oil change but not that often so maybe that is causing some of the higher readings. The car also sits a lot because it's a weekend toy so usually I change the oil in time and no miles. It also appears like I'm getting some airborne contaminants in my oil.

Here are the results.



-Brian

 

The silicon has to be found and corrected before you will know much of anything. It is likely the cause of the extremely high iron number.

Gauze air filters can start letting in lots of dirt if cleaned too harshly, or a leak after the filter.

 

Very high silicon indicates an air leak of unfiltered air. This is no doubt what is causing your high iron and chromium(ring wear). Low flashpoint and %fuel indicate a rich fuel condition which is diluting the oil. High insolubles are again due to the air leak. What brand of oil was this?

 

Mobil 1 5W30. I have been using a k&n filter for a long time. Maybe it's time to replace this thing. I've been careful when cleaning it but maybe it's just "done". I'm not even sure where this unfiltered air would be coming from. Any ideas?

I simply want to make sure my engine is doing ok for it's mileage. The extra fuel is due to a couple things. The cars runs rich at idle and very very rich on the juice. A/F is great NA off idle but just couldn't be turned down farther at idle.

 

I've been getting the oil tested on my Jeep for the last few years. I've got a K&N intake on it and people are always telling me my silicon levels are too high. The highest reading I've ever had on silicon is around 19. I've never seen a silicon number anywhere near 136. That seems crazy high. Is that a Blackstone test? What were their comments?

You should post it up on bobistheoilguy.com. You'll likely get lots of feedback.

 

The comments were:

Chrome, iron and silicon all read high in the first sample from this engine. All could be related if the silicon is from abrasive dirt contamination, so we suggest inspecting this system closely. Chrome is typically from the rings and iron is mainly from steel cylinders and both will be affected if the air filter is not doing its job. Universal averages show typical wear from this type of engine after 3,700 miles use on the oil. Fuel was present, though this isn't a problem level and didn't affect the viscosity. Check back here in 1,500 miles to help clean out this abrasive oil.

This was a Blackstone Lab test. The car runs well and I haven't had any mechanical issues with the car. I have been fighting some annoying oil leaks that would leak enough to leave specs on the back bumper. My valvecover had a nasty leak which has been fixed and I replaced the intake manifold that was also leaking at the rear. A recent fix was a leaking dipstick tube at the blocl. I guess this report is telling a different story.

 

seeing as the silicon seems to be causing severe cylinder/ring wear without causing major bearing wear, it seems to me like it really is an air filtration issue.

You are aware that M1 5w-30 is not the great choice it is reputed to be right.

Getting a little fuel in the oil is a whole lot better than the results of letting it go lean on the bottle.

 

What oil would you recommend and air filter? The car does sit quite a bit but I would imagine that would not effect things that much. Rich is happy in my case when spraying so thats why I havent touched the jets. I'm still shocked at the results. All of my hose clamps are tight from the ram air box and no noticeable leaks otherwise I would be running a bit lean correct? (air not going through the MAF) Just trying to nail down what this could be and why I am getting so much unfiltered air into my engine.

 

I was running 5w-30 then switched to 10w-30. My car seems to like it. It is November and it was 82 today so it gets very hot where I'm at.

 

I agree with Dwayne on the regular M1 5W-30 not being the best choice for the LT or LS motors. Go with a thick weight 30 such as the M1 10-30High Mileage, M1 10W40 HM or a 5-40 such as M1 Truck & SUV or a great buy is the Synthetic Rotella 5W-40 (All of the oils I have mentioned are available in 4 or 5 quart jugs at Walmart.

PS - A 10w-30 is NOT necessarily thicker at operating temperature than a 5w-30.

Post your oil analysis over at Bobistheoilguy.com - those guys eat and sleep oils. They should provide some good feedback.

 

The mobil 1 5w30 is thicker than 10w30 at operating temps. I'm running 0w40 in my car FWIW.

 

Are you basing that statement on actual tests, or on the Mobil product data sheets for 5W-30 (11.3 cSt @ 100*C) and 10W-30 (10.0 cSt @100*C)?

 

I've gotten a HUGE Amsoil Air filter put in the car to correct crap getting past my K&N. I'll be doing another oil test with better oil/an amsoil oil filter and new air filter after the next change (spring or summer next year) to see how much of a difference it makes.

 

I replaced the K&N filter on my FIPK with an AEM Dry-Flow. It made virtually no difference in my silicon numbers. So maybe both filters leave something to be desired. I also considered that new Amsoil Cone filter, but went with the AEM. I've also been running the Amsoil EaO oil filter for a couple of years now. It's supposedly a great filter. I even bought a couple of their PF454 equivalents for my Z.

 

Datasheet why?