My buddy just built his all forged 383 and listened to somebody who told him to put the stock B-body cam in it. Big mistake, it's slower than before the stroker lol... it's bad.

I don't want him to get a big cam after having tried to tune a 383 with one. The overlap or something made it impossible to tune out the surging in closed loop, had to run it in open loop and it still surges a bit.

My buddy has an automatic trans so any surging will get soaked up a little bit.


I'm looking toward the Comp Cams 305... I'm worried the 306 might be a little much?
Chime in people with 383's, what do you think?

here's a nice little comparison list of popular LT1 cams http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58050

 

Not knowing anything about the car ....

Comp 292XFI is a good choice for an off-the shelf hyd cam.
242/248 .584/.579 113LSA 109ICL
Should have a heavy lope and he'll want at least a 3600-4000 stall.
Will pull hard from 2200-6200RPM

The 280XFI is a little milder (230/236)
That would be a better choice if he doesn't want the lope of a big cam.

The other option (better IMHO) is to get ahold of the person who did his heads
(he does have ported heads, right?) and discuss custom grinds that compliment
the package and his needs. Weight, application, purpose ... it all matters.
Bret Bauer at Bauer racing has done two custom cams for me over the last few years.

I don't like the Comp 30x series ... no ***** down low.

 

Ditto on the 467, that's what I'm running in my 388. Very nice idle, hardly noticable; absolutely no surge, I degreed it in at 109 (per spec card); etc.

Part number is 07-467-8; 280XFI-HR13 is the grind number, and 280 is the duration at .006.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

Sorry, I should post some more info about his car.

It's an almost daily driven '95 LT1 with a 4l60e that's a bit beefed up and about a 2500rpm stall.
It's set to shift around 5800rpm, I might set it a little higher.

He has stock heads that he has cleaned up a bit.

He wants as mean a cam as possible that doesnt effect drivability.

 

My car is an auto with a 383 lt1...my N/A cam was a custom joe overton cam.
234/242 111lsa+2
i think around .580/.570ish on a 1.6RR

only issue i had was a SLIGHT sure at 2000rpm. couldnt really feel it, just would see about a 50-100rpm surge on the tach.

Jay

 

What gears, headers? with a a-4 you need around 3.73 to work good on street. my cam is 333/339 dur 540 ex.at.050 112+4 lc. which put a little more on the bottom good drivable with good tune. remember bigger cam `s need head work get the air in and out.

 

I would do one of these two things. You can not go wrong with a custom grind, but they do cost just a little more which in the long run is worth it in most peoples opinions.

 

He's got the stock gears, 3:23 I think. no headers, car is pretty stock really.

I'm liking the XF1 280 (cc467)... I wonder how well it would work with stock heads.

 

I would say go with a really small cam or be ready to shift at like 5500rpms. My cam is very nice, but my heads are slightly ported. I will say that with stock heads and stock headers I do not know what will work, but I suggest the smallest possible cam. My cam gets eaten up pretty good with the LE1 heads and headers though.

Without headers though, it is a whole new ball game.

 

Hang on a minute and I'll run you a quick Engine Analyzer Pro simulation.

Jake

 

bombebomb, maybe you should chime in since you have a 383 with a cam and stock heads

what cam do you have? how do you like it

 

I just ran the sim, I don't have all the stock LT1 head flow numbers (from .100 to .600) but I recall the max flow is 212. I saw that posted on a couple of sites. I plugged in 1.94/1.50 valves.

Also, I plugged in the 467 cam specs and 1.6 rockers. I adjusted the CID to 383, LT1 intake, sporty exhaust and 10.5 CR. I let the program choose best spark and fuel curve.

As I suspected it showed good torque beginning at idle (900) - over 400#s from 2700 to 5200 with a torque peak of 450 @ 3900.

Bad news is the HP fell on it's face at the higher RPMS. It only showed 399 at 5400, so that means the heads just couldn't flow enough at higher RPMs to take advantage of the cam.

This is only a rough idea mainly because I don't have the full flow numbers of the heads.

Hope it helps.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!

 

custom LE cam is like $40 more than an off the shelf

give lloyd a call

www.elliottsportworks.com

 

What do you mean by this?
His car is an auto that shifts just over 5800rpm I believe, but I might tune it to shift at like 6k.

 

Also, is it really necissary to use new roller lifters with a new cam? how about new pushrods or springs?
He's on a tight budget and can do $300 for a cam but probably not $600 for everything.