If you haven't followed some, car ran GREAT when the engine first went in. Started running crap, time to adjust valves. Found a few loose rockers, so 99% sure that's what it is, Bret agreed, and sent me this thing like 2 months ago for which valves I can set depending on crank position. I tried once a couple months ago to set them, but I failed miserably. Charging the battery right now, going to give this another shot. I think I went to tight last time. I did the 'engine running' method, with a stethescope, but it was difficult to tell exactly when the clacking stopped, because there was so much noise. I could try again and not go so tight, but I think I'm going to go engine off this time. Run the car for a few minutes, pump up the lifters, let everything get hot, then set them car off. Bret said to wiggle the rocker up/down until it just stops moving, then go ~ 1/12 turn and tighten the set screw. Hopefully this works. It's the only thing keeping me from driving this thing right now!

That is, if I can even see the timing marks on the crank with all that other crap covering it! Now I gotta go figure out which cyl is which...damn Chevy's have to do everything all screwed up...couldn't keep it simple like ford! LOL

4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
FRONT



JUST CAN'T GET IT TO STOP POPPING, EVEN AT IDLE!!!

Hell I even tried loosening EVERY exhaust rocker so that I know for SURE it's not too tight, and it's still snapping & popping. Maybe I need to try this with the car off.

 

Sheesh, already busted open my friggen knuckle. THAT didn't take long! First set screw.

 

Some headers are even glowing orange at idle, trying to work those ones first. One I dorked with the valves and about right away it stopped glowing. I'm trying to rationalize which valve has to be set which way for it to do that. I'm thinking too loose? Doesn't help when both lean & rich cause glowing headers. I think my Jet Hot finish is about trashed. Still coated, but not shiny anymore.

 

Dave.. I have mine adjusted to 1/4 turn. I had them at 3/4.... too tight.. when it got hot it messed up with the engine then 1/2 ..... ran good and have no problems with them.... but still didnt have that much power ...(there is never enough or is it?) now I ajusted them to 1/4 and its good too.

About the clacking... Mine were noisy from the begining... and I used to hear click click here and there... Last oil change I went with mobil 1 and what a difference... the sound is half as much and I no longer hear any clicking sounds.

Just a note.

Marvin

Edit.. I have thicker studs with a diff thread pitch

 

Yeah I've seen a million different things about them...I'm trying the way Bret told me...see how this works. I hate these damn things. Just finished setting them, now I'm wrestling the stupid elbow back onto the TB. Food time.

 

Well I set them, and the sumbitch still wants to blow my intake elbow right the hell off. I figure if it's doing that, then either the intake valves are too tight, or the engine is firing before the valve is closing for some odd reason?

I set the valves as LOOSE as I could though. I mean, as SOON as the rocker stopped moving vertical, I tightened the set screw. I don't know what to do next. Make them even LOOSER? Beats the hell outta me.

 

Wait...!! Did you say as soon as the rocker stopped moving vertical?

Did you mean as soon as the rocker (with the lifter fully pumped) touched the valve on one end and the pushrod on the other one? I mean all you need to do is take out the slack (while the lifter is fully pumped up) and then only then you adjust the lifter preload...

You are not pushing down on the rocker till it fully stops moving? if you keep pushing I will keep bleeding the lifter down and you will lift the valve off the valve seats....

Just checking you understand the procedure.

Marvin

 

I understand what you're saying...no I mean with the lifter fully pumped, and the rocker nut loose, I tightened down the nut until it just took up the slack between the rocker and the pushrod/valve tip. Didn't compress the lifter at all.

That would suck if I'd done it like the other way huh?

 

The way I did mine, was make sure it was at zero lash (the pushrod can't move by hand anymore, like twisted around) and then a lilttle less than a 1/2 turn. Runs golden, with very little valvetrain noise. the even cylinders are on the passenger side, and the odds are on the driver side, real simple. Passenger side from front as follows: 2,4,6,8 Driver side as follows: 1,3,5,7. You have to start with either 1 at TDC or 6 at TPC, with the crank arrow at noon (assuming it was never off or was reinstalled with it at the right place) either 1 or 6 will be TPC, just look to see which springs are compressed.

 

I tried going to zero, still was popping and sputtering. I think it's my Comp R lifters.

The thing won't even start now though for some reason.

 

adjusted with the car running, the easiest way to do it

 

i am 95% sure its not your valve adjustment, its something to do with igntion, either the timming chain aint on right or the opti isnt on right,

 

I tried it with the car running too, and it was still popping out through the intake & exhaust, so I tried it with the car off, same result.

The car DID run correctly, then all of a sudden started running bad. The opti is only being used for timing because I'm using a Delteq system, so I wouldn't think it's that I hope?

Timing chain is a Cloyes double-roller, brand new. I don't think it would have jumped a tooth this soon?

I do appreciate the input, just trying to figure out what would make it go from good to bad...I don't think those things would have changed, no?

 

did you just tigthen till it stopped clicking and tightened down right there?

 

Tried that, and 1/12th turn past that, tried both. It's really hard to tell when it stops clicking with 16 roller rockers chattering away.