Ok, basic rundown of car:
95 stroked 385 LT1
11.21:1 compression
.034 quench
42# SVO injectors
Holley adjustable fpr at 42psi
52mm throttle body
egr, air delete
TR6 plugs at .038
msd OTVC wires
new GM opti
blaster coil
Race ported AI heads and intake and custom cam
cometic .o27 head gaskets
comp promags
comp 850 lifters
csr e H2O pump
True ram air
pacesetter coated longtubes with ORY
flowmaster catback
one 2 1/2" electric exhaust cutout after y pipe
These are the main things that should matter motor wise...

Now, as soon as I have the thing put together, im gonna dyno it at doug rippies for our regional f-body event.
So~ should I just have the headers open, and disconnect the y? This is how I would run it at the track, will this hurt anything, motor or dyno number wise??

Also, I am rollin on 18 x 10.5 chrome Z06 wheels, with comp 295/35zr18 rubber out back. Should I switch to the stock 16's with 245 rubber? I have the stock set still laying around that I use for winter storage.

I have a 6 speed manual, with 3.42 posi gears.

So, what would help me achieve the best number on the dyno? Its a dynojet, that is all I know. But, I really want to hit a really good number for braggin rights after all this damn work and money. Its not like I am cheating, cuz I think I will get drag radials for my 16's when I go to the track anyway. So, would open headers and the stock rims get me a better dyno number? Just curious and want to know what I gotta do before I head down to the dyno june 3rd!~
Thanks
Cody

 

you can't tell me no one has any dyno secrets here...

 

I'm not an expert by any means, but I believe you at least a foot of pipe after the open headers. So as to help your O2's maintain a proper reading. If this is true and your willing to go thru the trouble to bolt these on every time you go to the track, more power to ya. Sounds like a pain to me tho. Just open your cut out, or run some duals with an x-pipe if you can stand the noise.
As far as the wheels and tires, run the smaller ones with the proper air pressure. And if you can't afford a real rear end with a stiffer set of gears, don't be to disappointed if your track times aren't that great.
I'm not knocking your set-up, it sounds like you have put some thought and money into it. It just might require a little bit more of both. As in, these cars are money pits, aren't they?
What valve springs are you running by the way?

 

yeah, huge money pits! jeez I just don't know when to stop now. Next will be the rear when it goes south, that I know is comin. But, what can you do?
Im runin the 918 beehives with the new AI heads comin in the mail.

 

How about a vaque hint on the specs of your cam. As in mine is a 22x/22x dur. Mid .500 lift by 11x lsa. (as in small cam) Don't you just love these I can't tell the exact specs games? What kind of HP are you looking for and what's the red line going to be?

 

X2. Give us your cam specs

 

well, it has been sworn to secresy... but, it will produce a very flat torque curve in the low 400's, and hopin for 440+ rwhp. Plus, should be about 27mpg. Talk about efficiency!!!

 

27mpg? That part I find a little hard to believe. The rest I hope you attain. But in parting, I find it hard to go to bed without some small piece of info on your cam specs and or rpm shift points. As I said a vague input would have been nice and not brought down the wrath of Phil. Or would it?

 

well, thiere last motor with the same seup as I have, Jeff Creech tuned it up to the tune of 444rwhp, and a solidly flat torque curve, and the owner reported 27 miles per gallon driving nicely on the freeway... so Im a little excited!

 

To late, I'm sleeping now. Get back to me when you have some pertinent info on the questions in point! Seriously tho, was the 444rwhp with a stock computer or aftermarket?

 

Ya can do the same thing with a stock computer under 7200 as ya can do with a Fast system.

Make sure ya got 30+lbs of air in the rear tires and make um strap it down tight so the tires don't spin.

 

i would run with the cutout open, about 32 psi in the smaller tires, and some guys run thin motor oil to get 5-7 more hp out of it but i dont recommend it i run 20w50 in mine all the time

Good luck! Im strapping mine down within the next month too
Bill

 

Before anything is strapped anywhere make sure your driveline is in good shape. Check and replace u-joints, balance driveshaft, check and recheck all suspension bolts. Do not rush here...Be careful if you are running a stock mounted TA, there's a ton of stress happening on your tailshaft...Last year I split my tailshaft in half, split my 1LE driveshaft, and destroyed my yoke, and even though I had a front DS loop, the rear section beat the hell out of my trans tunnel and e-brake mounts...So far it appears that my then stock mounted aftermarket TA put tons of stress on the trans and caused the failure... I have since switched to a cross brace mounted Spohn TA with TWO loops...If your car is not lowered the two loop set up is what I'd recommend to anyone for piece of mind and safety..Believe me, it scarey as hell to see your DS come flying out from under your car at 6100 rpm...!!!

Not trying to scare you at all, just remember to methodically check and recheck all fasteners and components...Sounds like youll have an animal on your hands and a 12 bolt in your near future! Good luck...

--Alan

...and this is a good time to run the full exhaust and with the cut out open for some before and after tests...I'd run the 16" wheels also if thats what youre going to run at the track...

 

Well, I did go with the spohn torque arm, with both driveshaft safety loops at your request! So, Im golden there. I am also using the stock steel driveshaft instead of my LS1, as I don't want that to blow up! I know the steel is a little more rotating mass, but its a good insurrance policy.

It was the stock PCM. like already posted, its good to like 7200 rpms. No way in hell mine will be spinning that high.

I only get two pulls, so I want it to be the best it can be! So, no real chance for before and after at this dyno day, as its only 40 bucks for two pulls, hence the question what to do to make it the best it can be right off the bat.

Thanks for all the responses, and keep them commin!

 

Check all the fluid levels and make sure they are at the full point.