Javier,

You sound like me. The last time I didnt even use cardboard. The only time it sprays oil is when it first starts, cause it will idle a little high for the first second until it comes down. It was clean and easy. Just dont rev the engine with them off. Then it BLOWS oil everywhere.

 

Running, I won't do it, tried it, won't work because it will catch your socket and won't let go, but I have cc roller rockers

The best way:

When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:

Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8

Rotate the crank one revolution until the pointer is again at 12 o'clock. This will let you adjust the remainder of the valves. If you did #1 the previous time, you should be now at #6 TDC.

When at #6 TDC you can adjust the following valves:

Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7

 

Thats what I do normally, but I am willing to try anything and see how it pans out.

 

i do mine with it running no precoutions what so ever on the oil when some does get on the headers it just smokes a little it is not gas and just going to go up in flames

 

What do you have to loose with it running?

If you have trouble with it like that guy whose socket kept sticking, shut the car off, crank the pulley by hand to TDC for #1, and go 1/16 of a turn more than you did last time (Read your other Thread) Fire it up and see if its quiter. If its not, take them a little further. Play around with it, but dont go too far past what Bret told you to do.

Also, make sure the tick you were hearing was definatly the rockers. It jsut as easily could have been the exhaust. I thought it was my valves. I readjusted them on Sunday with it running ( 2 hours start to finish at most ? ) and could still hear something. Upon further investigation, my EGR was loose where it bolts to the header. Tightened it up, and it sounds MUCH better.

Also, another place that makes some slight ticking, you may want to check:

If you are stuill running your AIR pump, the one way valves right where it bolts onto the header. They can make a slight ticking from the pulsing gasses coming out of that primary tube. I can always get a tick from that if my ear is right up against it.

 

Use a wrench.

 

i've tried all the different ways they say to do it on the shoebox website but i was talking to my friend and he gave me a method that i like more than any, and it worked perfect (engine off) and by doing each one individually. i'll try and word it the best i can, i had to jot it down while on the phone with him

-to set the exhaust rockers, have someone under the car turning the motor over and right when the intake spring starts to close is the time to set the exhaust
-to set the intake rockers, adjust them after the exhaust spring starts to compress

my car was too noisy to do it with the engine on, and before i used cardboard oil was all over and smoke was pouring out to the point i couldnt see/breathe. i have pretty loud exhaust and the clacking mixing with the normal drivetrain noise was too close to hear the difference

-Chris

 

Mike 96 Z, Try using a short socket, with an extension. I found it to be more difficult with a wrench than with a short ratchet, short socket, and 3 inch extension.

Also, Im suprised silentsprintero, that you had oil flying everywhere. When I first started it, it sprayed a little oil, but once the idle calms down to where it should be, almost no oil should be flying out of the valve covers, maybe a drip here and there, but nothing major.

 

My method is to use gloves and tighten the nuts down by hand instead of using a wrench. Of course the studs and nuts have to be completely free from being dirty. I start the engine, back off an adjusting nut, loosen the polylock, then tighten until I feel the least amount of resistence and feel/hear the clatter go away. Keep a stubby wrench on the adjusting nut until the poly lock can be secured and move onto the next one.
As far as oil issues go I run CC HiTechs which has a low angle oil hole aimed more at the trunion. Weird but it seems like most everyone on here runs the Pro Mags...

 

You can adjust them while car is running just fixed the stud that broke on mine and it runs great other than im using the polylocks for aluminum rockers instead of steel because they are to tall I should be ok.. I hope thats what im trying to find out in my thread. Since im using the polylocks for alum. rockers it should be fine with the steel ones right....

 

I did mine running before to, I dont pull the hole alt off of mine tho, I just pull the 2 bolts out of the top and tilt it over on the big through bolt you can sneek the valve cover out of there then takes a little work but in my case its better than pulling my intercooler and everything else off to get to the belt to take it off.

 

Ive come to a decision, between reading these post, talking to Bryan herter and Bret Bauer about this.

1) Check the spark plugs for lean/rich mixture. I put a load on it last night before shutting it down. Ill check it when I get home.

2) Tighter lash = Loss of hp; I will run the motor for 3 minutes, let the lifters be as primed as much as they can be, do while the motor off again. But do between 1/2 and 2/3 turn a (more toward 1/2 turn)

3) I purchased a new Block KS, I am going to wrap it in foam/tape, something to desenstize it, tuck it away and look at the data log.

4) If the spark retard goes away, then I have my answer.

5) Bryan is back logged with data logs, so a retune will not be at least for 2 weeks, so this is what I can do in the mean time.