BlackScreaminMachine

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443772

I got a chance to drive the car and scan her with my Datamaster program, The car is getting massive spart retard 1-5 degrees but mostly 3-5. At idle and under pretty much any load on the motor. I suspect its valve train related, since it is loud compared to the old set up.

I contacted Bryan Herter to see what I can do tune wise but the one thing mechanically I can do is re adjust with the motor running. I used to do this with my chevelle and I guess I will do it with this car. Although I am not a fan of it, I have heard good results.

Any personal exp with this, stories?

Javier97Z28

Yep, it only takes a few minutes and IMO is the most accurate way of doing it.

rickyzZ28

That is the only way I will adjust mine, I had nothing but problems adjusting them with the engine off. Of course mine is a little easier since mine is in a third gen. The only thing I can tell you is try and make a shield from sheet metal to block the oil from hitting the headers. Do not use a towel or you risk a fire hazzard.

GetaZforgetGT

I did it that way once and everything worked out fine.
I've always just had a problem hearing the loose rocker over the other normal valvetrain noise.
I normally go zero lash and an 1/8th turn and see where it is.

BlackScreaminMachine

I am not sure with Morels, with the engine running method, when its not, its 2/3 a turn. I will leave one valve cover on at a time.

Also I was wondering, will the ALT be in the way when I do the pass side. SO the car could run and not lose power not being on the alt.

Javier97Z28

Yes, the alternator has to be removed (it is most definitely in the way), and yes the car will have enough power to run for a few minutes to set lash.

HardcoreRM125

It should be the same preload.

Also, when you do it with them running, here is a few things to think about:

As you loosen the polylock, you will hear it start to clack. Tighten it down, but do not PUSH down on it. If you are pushing down, the noise will stop sooner than it should. Once it stops completely with the clacking sound(zero lash), you will have about 1/16 of a turn (May be different with Morels, they seem like they need cranked down more than stock lifters) until you can feel it getting "jerky"(kinda a pulsing sensation you will feel as you are setting your preload) as you tighten it. This is normal. Just go slow tightening them to your preload then.

Once you reach your preload, tighten the set screw on the poly lock. Once it is good and tight, snug up the other part of the poly again with the ratchet/wrench,etc. This will keep them from backing out on you.

Also, its not messy at all at idle. I hardly had any oil flying out. What I did do however, was take a piece of cardboard, tape it to the edge of the head, and to the fenderwell so none of it went flying down on the headers.

And do yourself a favor: Tie up the lead that goes into the alternator. Cause when it hits the accessory bracket with the car running, it will scare the **** out of you.

BlackScreaminMachine

Thanks for all the insight and tips, Maybe ill hook my battery charger up to the battery so I can keep it going incase.

Should I loosen all the poly locks on a side before I fire motor, or each valve at a time?

snod83

Each valve is done seperately, if not you won't hear it click.

Ryan

fastchevy

What I've always done is take another set of valve covers, cut the tops off and put them on. No oil will make it onto the headers/engine...I've been doing that for years, does noone else do this?

MPB70350

^+1 this is how i have done it on my chevelle, but never done it with centerbolt valve covers.

BlackScreaminMachine

I would do that if I had a extra set of valve covers lying around, Thats an ingenius idea, I used something similar on my chevelle (1970), but for the fbody, I dont have this. The cardbord thing should work fine. I just need to get home and do it.

ajschult

If more than one are loose or if you have loud exhaust it can be difficult to determine when the one that you are adjusting stops ticking. I've found that using a large wood handled screw driver (like a foot long or more) works nicely as a stethoscope. Put the handle to your ear and the tip on the roller rocker and it is much easier to hear when it stops ticking.

Javier97Z28

Oil doesn't go flying out of the valvetrain at idle... I've never had to do this.. if a drip of oil gets on my headers, oh freakin' well..

A little smoke doesn't scare me

stroked383z28

Keep in mind that oil is flammable.