Going for 12s w/bolt ons
#1
Going for 12s w/bolt ons
Im planning a cam swap this season but i figure i only get once chance to prove the LT1s potential, so i might as well take it.
My personal best was this past season and is in the sig. I did it full weight on street tires with the stock tune and stock 3.42 gears. Ive yet to cut a 60 foot better than 2.1 (althought i cut 2.1s VERY consistently). My only 2 major mods are pacesetter LTs with ***ty ORY and cutout.
To pull it off, ill for sure have the following over last years setup:
-LCAs
-Nitto Drag Radials
-Tuning Equipment: wideband and laptop
-New [better] y-pipe, or run open headers.
Also might get:
-Airfoil
Dont want to do/get:
-weight reduction
-gears
Little stuff i already have/had:
-160 thermo and fan switch
-LT4 KM
-Pro 5.0 shifter, pistol grip, and some skill at the wheel
-alu driveshaft
any other ideas???
My personal best was this past season and is in the sig. I did it full weight on street tires with the stock tune and stock 3.42 gears. Ive yet to cut a 60 foot better than 2.1 (althought i cut 2.1s VERY consistently). My only 2 major mods are pacesetter LTs with ***ty ORY and cutout.
To pull it off, ill for sure have the following over last years setup:
-LCAs
-Nitto Drag Radials
-Tuning Equipment: wideband and laptop
-New [better] y-pipe, or run open headers.
Also might get:
-Airfoil
Dont want to do/get:
-weight reduction
-gears
Little stuff i already have/had:
-160 thermo and fan switch
-LT4 KM
-Pro 5.0 shifter, pistol grip, and some skill at the wheel
-alu driveshaft
any other ideas???
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; 12-30-2007 at 03:52 AM.
#2
Do the gears. What is the best ratio the M6 came with 3.42? The T56 with the .50 OD is perfectly pleasant to drive even on the highway with 4.10s. Will allow you to use 6th more and should not impact fuel economy.
Might consider doing the springs and roller rockers before the cam, this will definetely help you out. Stock springs that are that old are going to allow some valve float, GM ran minimal pressure for fuel economy gains so especially once springs get some use you can gain from just swapping them out, but if you go through that effort no sense in putting the stock rockers back on, rollers are so much easier to adjust anyway.
Might consider doing the springs and roller rockers before the cam, this will definetely help you out. Stock springs that are that old are going to allow some valve float, GM ran minimal pressure for fuel economy gains so especially once springs get some use you can gain from just swapping them out, but if you go through that effort no sense in putting the stock rockers back on, rollers are so much easier to adjust anyway.
#4
Do the gears. What is the best ratio the M6 came with 3.42? The T56 with the .50 OD is perfectly pleasant to drive even on the highway with 4.10s. Will allow you to use 6th more and should not impact fuel economy.
Might consider doing the springs and roller rockers before the cam, this will definetely help you out. Stock springs that are that old are going to allow some valve float, GM ran minimal pressure for fuel economy gains so especially once springs get some use you can gain from just swapping them out, but if you go through that effort no sense in putting the stock rockers back on, rollers are so much easier to adjust anyway.
Might consider doing the springs and roller rockers before the cam, this will definetely help you out. Stock springs that are that old are going to allow some valve float, GM ran minimal pressure for fuel economy gains so especially once springs get some use you can gain from just swapping them out, but if you go through that effort no sense in putting the stock rockers back on, rollers are so much easier to adjust anyway.
I'll think about the gears because i already have my rear end out of the car at the moment, but Ive always wanted to avoid aftermarket gears because they are more likely to break than original gears. I dont really want to invest in a 10 bolt either.
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; 12-30-2007 at 12:05 PM.
#5
LT's, stall, tires thats all it takes, Stock suspension 12.9's. Added a gear 12.7's, so you should have no problem with an M6 and some tire. I just noticed your right around the corner from me, I live in Clinton Twp. I got a couple buddies who go to gvsu.
#6
definitely not changing springs and rockers a month before i do the cam, thats too much extra work and defeats the purpose... i want to do a 12 having never taken a valve cover off. I understand there might be some float there, gonna have to deal with it for now. That being said, my car is a healthy and strong runner... i wouldnt be attempting this if it wasnt.
I'll think about the gears because i already have my rear end out of the car at the moment, but Ive always wanted to avoid aftermarket gears because they are more likely to break than original gears. I dont really want to invest in a 10 bolt either.
I'll think about the gears because i already have my rear end out of the car at the moment, but Ive always wanted to avoid aftermarket gears because they are more likely to break than original gears. I dont really want to invest in a 10 bolt either.
#7
put it this way...my buddys cobra has 4.10s in it, and only revs 2200 on the highway in 6th
use this gear calculator to play around with
http://www.f-body.org/gears/
it says w/ 4.10 gears, in 6th you will be at 1900 RPMs going 70.....yup, definately think i would change if i were you
use this gear calculator to play around with
http://www.f-body.org/gears/
it says w/ 4.10 gears, in 6th you will be at 1900 RPMs going 70.....yup, definately think i would change if i were you
#9
Im planning a cam swap this season but i figure i only get once chance to prove the LT1s potential, so i might as well take it.
My personal best was this past season and is in the sig. I did it full weight on street tires with the stock tune and stock 3.42 gears. Ive yet to cut a 60 foot better than 2.1 (althought i cut 2.1s VERY consistently). My only 2 major mods are pacesetter LTs with ***ty ORY and cutout.
To pull it off, ill for sure have the following over last years setup:
-LCAs
-Nitto Drag Radials
-Tuning Equipment: wideband and laptop
-New [better] y-pipe, or run open headers.
Also might get:
-Airfoil
Dont want to do/get:
-weight reduction
-gears
Little stuff i already have/had:
-160 thermo and fan switch
-LT4 KM
-Pro 5.0 shifter, pistol grip, and some skill at the wheel
-alu driveshaft
any other ideas???
My personal best was this past season and is in the sig. I did it full weight on street tires with the stock tune and stock 3.42 gears. Ive yet to cut a 60 foot better than 2.1 (althought i cut 2.1s VERY consistently). My only 2 major mods are pacesetter LTs with ***ty ORY and cutout.
To pull it off, ill for sure have the following over last years setup:
-LCAs
-Nitto Drag Radials
-Tuning Equipment: wideband and laptop
-New [better] y-pipe, or run open headers.
Also might get:
-Airfoil
Dont want to do/get:
-weight reduction
-gears
Little stuff i already have/had:
-160 thermo and fan switch
-LT4 KM
-Pro 5.0 shifter, pistol grip, and some skill at the wheel
-alu driveshaft
any other ideas???
#11
#12
Well i just scored a second ten bolt with 60k on it and a T/A cover for some spare change
Im going to look into getting some 3.90s for it. My rear is already out of the car right now so now that i have 2 rear ends i might as well gear one of them.
cool, how long have you been in SLP i may have met you before, ive gone to a few of their cruises before.
are motive gears strong enough?
well the 60 is all im looking at improving as far as driving goes, when i ran the 13.56 i wasnt wasting any time between gears... i was getting rubber in all 4.
you and a few others in here are making me think im a lot closer to this goal than i thought i was. I wonder what ill be capable of after the cam
Im going to look into getting some 3.90s for it. My rear is already out of the car right now so now that i have 2 rear ends i might as well gear one of them.
There are aftermarket gears that are just as strong as OEM, heck buy AAM gears they are the supplier for GM and find an AAM dealer the price is a fraction of buying through GM. 4.10s have a smaller pinion though which can impact strength but keep it out of wheelhop and it should be OK.
You already have the trap speed to run 12's. I have already done it without removing the valve covers and I am pretty sure you can too without to much of a problem. A set of 4:10's and a decent 60 along with some quick shifts and you should be able to run 12's without a problem.
you and a few others in here are making me think im a lot closer to this goal than i thought i was. I wonder what ill be capable of after the cam
#13
I'm trying for bolt-on 12s too. I'm running 13.2 @101.74 with a 1.77 60 and the only mods I have are PS longtubes, 2.5 true duals/ with bullets dumped, Vig3200, 3.42s, Welds front and back, LCAs, and a Madztune. Its weighs 3680lbs with me in it and still has stock airbox.
I've read about a lot of guys running 12's with my set up, what's holding me back?
Sorry about the hijack. Figured the answer to my questions could help you as well.
I've read about a lot of guys running 12's with my set up, what's holding me back?
Sorry about the hijack. Figured the answer to my questions could help you as well.
#14
12's were tough for a while with minimal mods, I was stuck @ 13.1 for a while... I had stock manifolds, gutted cat, cutout, and stock (2.73) gears. I got the gears and exhaust work done and was in the 12.6 range, then weight reduction, suspension, and tires got me to where I am now...
#15
cool, how long have you been in SLP i may have met you before, ive gone to a few of their cruises before.