I think my pump is just about shot. So I planned to upgrade to a Walbro 255lph. The Racetronix setup looks like it's right up my alley. The problem is I only planned to spend about $150 everything. Is it really worth it to get the complete PnP kit or will the pump and assembly setup be just fine? Again if I didn't go the Racetronix route I was just going to get a new pump and do the swap, since their setup will allow me to keep the bucket and everything in tact it seems more sensible. I know the PnP is the better way to go, I just want to know if I really need it or not. Thanks in advance.

 

Projected RWHP?

 

As of right now? Probably 270-300. After this winter and the H/C swap probably close to 400. Is there a difference between the two as far as pumps offered?

 

You will be fine with the pump alone @ 400RWHP.
The pump supplied is the same. The difference between the two systems is the harness.

 

What about 500rwhp on motor and a 150-200 wet shot?

 

550RWHP with the complete system is what we recommend.
Up to 650RWHP with the addition of a pump booster which plugs into the Racetronix harness.

 

Well the pump officially died on me so I ordered just the assembly setup today. Would it still be worth it to get the PnP wiring down the road when I got a little more cash? I've been reading the info about the voltage drop sometimes experienced with old worn out wiring which in turn causes a fuel pressure loss. I don't want to be burning up my new pump or still having the same issues as I was before she officially died. Thanks in advance.

Also I've read as many of the posts as I could find concerning the install, so I think I'm all set as far as understanding. Though without getting the instructions yet, does anyone have any pointers where the directions may be lacking? Thanks again.

 

support@racetronix.com

NO TRAP DOOR METHOD. REMOVE THE TANK AND FLUSH IT OUT THOROUGHLY!!! F-LT1 TANKS KILL MORE WALBRO PUMPS THAN ANY OTHERS DUE TO RUST CONTAMINATION.

 

I did the trap door method. I know Racetronix recommends dropping the tank but the very fact that when i first fired my car up the plastic bendable fuel line was in the way and screwing up the float on my gauge and i had to immediately pull the pump to fix it. That would of taken a long time dropping the tank again. To me i would rather just buy a new pump then drop the tank again. I'm just wondering Racetronix doesn't the new filter sock on the pump filter out that rust? Thanks Mike

 

Some rust / dirt particles will make it past the 30 micron media used in the filter socks. It's like trying to get salt out of water in some cases. Many F-LT1 owners are students on a tight budget so the prospect of buying a new pump should be enough incentive to properly clean the tank.

 

I agree with you 100% about the better way to swap the pump. I also understand the reason why I should do it that way. Unfortunately I'm working on my own with minimal access to get the car up decently and without an extra set of hands to aid in tank removal so I almost have no choice. I know I DO have a choice, but my options are limited at the moment and I can't hitch a ride forever. I need to get this fixed as quickly as possible, and the pump won't even be here until Thursday so I'm hitchin' for atleast a week as it is. I also would rather just buy a new pump and from here on out be able to swap it in an hour or less if need be. Maybe when I have more time when the car is in hybernation, I'll pull the tank and flush it. Then even if the short time the pump is used in an unflushed tank if it goes out, a replacement will be fine. It's a dumb way of doing it, but it's the best option I have in my situation.

 

We've done several pumps pulling the tank and all were whistle clean...could be that some people use crap gas or additives. I seriously contemplated the trap door method for mine, but once you get over the intial dread of yanking the tank, it's not so bad. Having three people is best, one to bench press the tank, one to wiggle and guide it, and the third to start down the filler neck hole to tell you what you're hung up on. The pump/harness kit is definitely NICE, I'm glad I spent the extra $...it's as plug and play as you'll get.

 

Tank condition varies based on the climate, the tank seal and the average gas level kept in the tank etc.
You can not look into a tank and gauge its internal condition.
Grit and rust settle to the bottom and once stirred up are undetectable to the human eye. Empty the tank through a white clean towel into a bucket for a better idea.
We have had many pumps sent back where the filter socks and flex tubes are brown. They go in bright white. Some gas stations have contaminated in-ground tanks as well.