Like everyone else that says they want to rebuild and their car has 1xx,xxx miles on it, I also want to do some sort of tune up. I'd like to get 350 HP and 375 TQ under 6000 RPM. I know it has been done so it is possible. But these are my questions.

1) I heard the stock crank is strong and can support quite a bit of power, will it be able to support 400 HP/TQ no problem and with no future problems?

2) How much power will shorty headers free up, I did some research and found around 15 HP.

Here's what I plan on getting, and does anyone think it will get me above 350 HP/375 TQ?

-1.6 rockers
-CC305 or something similar
-987 springs
-shorty headers, don't know what brand yet

3) What else should I get to go above 350/375? Money is an issue here too so I'm not going to go get LT's, ported heads, and all that stuff. I saw some people got above that with the hotcam and 1.6 rockers and shorty's.

Any help is appreciated.

 

sounds reasonable with a 383
I don't see that tq# being produced from 350ci.

edit! maybe with a custom cam.... ........maybe...

 

Your crank isnt the weakest link nor are your rods they should handle up to 500hp fine but your old worn and tired bearings wont. Theres no telling with that many miles how long or if it will last.Theres so many conditions that play a role into that.(milage,oil change intervals,overheated,gas ran,maintenance schedule, previous abuse) There is no correct answer to question will my 1xx,xxx engine last with 350hp. The only way to find out is to do it. So are you going to rebuild it? If so upgrade your bearings slap in a 306 or LE package and those numbers should be easily attainable. If your not going to rebuild it then go with the 305 or hot cam depending on rpm's you want to run it at. Some lt's respond great to highmilage mods others dont go over so well, mostly bearing failure. The way i look at it is .. what do you have to lose worst case scenario your looking at a rebuild thats needed anyway, however it almost always cost more to do it the wrong way then it does to do it the right way. Its pretty much a choice only you and your wallet can make. Hope this helps.

 

Are we talking about wheels or crank power? Dont worry about internals even at RWHP/RWTQ those numbers are managable. Shorties arent the best way to free up power, but some folks dont have a choice.

-Dustin-

 

I'd like 350/375 at the wheels. What I plan on doing is to try and get some money together, and replace some things that I know could use it. Like springs, rockers, gaskets. Then I would like to add a mild to semi mild cam and still keep it street friendly.

I don't know how well the car has been maintained before I had it, but I have taken very good care of it. It has a lot of new parts that are minor and keep it in working order like fuel pressure regulator and such. If I can help it I'd rather not have to pull the engine. That just makes more work and takes up more space that I don't have.

I remember reading somewhere to get a 383 you need a bigger crank right? That means I would have to tear the engine apart completely so I don't want to do that. Here is a camshaft I'm looking at

Lunati 50155: 215 218 .522 .537 113 1500-5500 (lift with 1.6's)

Will that set me above 350/350? If I can't make 375 TQ from a 350 CID then I suppose 350 TQ and HP is pretty good for me.

Another thing; do I need to change lifters or anything? And for swapping the camshafts, is it literally as easy as pulling one out and putting the new one in? I know I'll have to take everything off the front of the engine. Tutorials? Books? References? Thanks for the replies so far.

EDIT: forgot to mention my car has 182,000 miles.

 

anyone?

 

With a 356,the best heads-280CFM- a decent hyd roller,intake ported,bigger injectors,bigger TB,bigger fuel pump-255-forged pistons,forged 4340 rods,ED LT4 timing chain set,LTheaders,RR's,rings,bearings,gaskets,oil pump. There should be no problem with 415FWHP.
This is to put it together so as it isn't blown up next week and can make plenty of power,probably more like 450-460FWHP depending on cam.That's about 370-380RWHP.

 

I'm not looking to go all out, unless I need to if my motor just has a major break down. Also, if it does that I'd just go buy an LT4 at a local junkyard. What I'm looking for is 350/350 with at the most tear down being for the camshaft. I also found some 96 LT1 heads for $75 at a junkyard, I might buy them and port them/new springs/rockers and such. Sound like a good idea?

 

www.eportworks.com

Lloyd Elliot will get you the power you need. I'll be looking for about ~370rwhp or so with the LE1 heads/cam package while making my Z a true daily driver again. You wont be dissapointed with Lloyd, just do a search on it.

 

mines got 110k on clock and tonight im throwing in

CC XE 230/236 112 cam
Comp Cams 1305-16 rocker arms (7/16" stud)
Comp Cams 26918-16 springs
Comp Cams 787-16 retainers
Comp Cams 601-16 valve locks
ARP 7/16" studs
Valve Seats
AFR guide plates
Comp Hi-Tech pushrods
CSI WP

total cost : $850 (plus about 80$ in gaskets and coolant/oil yadda yadda)

Car has:
SLP shorty headers
Off road ypipe
SLP loudmouth
TB bypass
LT4 KM
SLP airfoil
K&N FIPK
Trickflow elbow


im hoping with this and a good tune to be putting down about 360 to the wheels - of course there will be a lot of potential in future but this was all i could afford at moment- hope that gives you a good idea-

 

That's right around the price I'd like to spend. Not too much more than that. My list:

-CC305
-987 springs
-seats, locks, retainers and such
-1.6 NON-roller rocker. (there cheaper and if someone is really curious, I'll tell you why)
-Tune obviously
-Shorty headers of some sort. (I'd like to keep it emission legal)

I don't think I'll really need chromemoly pushrods right now. Also, I heard 94 came with hardened pushrods from the factory so that's good enough for me. Like I said, I'm not going all out, once I hit 350/350 or close I will probably keep it that way for a long time if not life. But thanks guys for the ideas and lists of stuff you've done.

Also, about the Lloyd Elliot heads, well I don't have enough money, maybe if I win the lottery

 

With 18x,000 miles, I would just save for a rebuild and skip the cam until you do so.

 

I'll be on the dyno in a week, but I feel I will be lucky if I make 350/350. Thats a lot to hope for. Have you had the car dynoed in its current form? I know when I was on longtubes only I put down a pitiful 280hp.

Are you m6? That will get you closer, and what gears do you have? I am no expert, but that lunatic crane is a joke. I have never been a fan of the lt1 hotcam, so I would say 305 at a minimum. With my m6 and 4.10s I honesty think my cc306 is a tiny cam. With a good tune it drives almost like any other car. I have been driving 96ta(nick) 's car around and he has a 24x/25x 59x/60x cam on just a 357 motor. Its still streetable, but not friendly. With decent heads he was able to put down 415hp/370tq.

Do what everyone on here says, set your goals. You seem to have an idea that you want to do something, but decide just how much you want to do. I put in what most people on here call a fairly large cam for a 350ci with 120k on the clock. I did it dirt cheap (<$500) and am very happy with the car. Stock suspension leaving the line easy it is still able to break in the the 12's @ 110mph.

I would say don't buy a cam until you have heard/driven if possible cars with that cam in it. I had driven the car that had my cam before I bought the cam from him.

 

Good idea to drive a car with the cam before i buy it. But the hard thing is finding someone that has the cam i'd like. There's someone in the club that has a 600 hp blower Z28, but i doubt big time if he'd let me drive it. Yet again i'm not looking for 600hp either. I just want something to set you back in the seat. Not something that will kick the living snot out of anything inside of it. Right now with the tires i have, which grip pretty well, the car doesn't spin the tires at all from a dead stop. I don't think my tires are that good at gripping to have traction, i just think i don't have enough power.