supermo26

I have some questions reguarding the design of my future fuel rail mod.
I want to run a dual feed system with a better fuel pressure regulator. I have seen -6 and -8 fuel lines welded up to the LT1 rail. I can't seam to find a male weld on fitting. I have seen the female weld in fitting for sale but no one runs them. SO what are you guys welding up to the rail?

Is -6 going to be too small for a 383 Stroker that may get a N2o Kit later down the road. I don't want to limit myself by running a fuel line that is too small. If I go to big I don't want to have problems with a pressur drop because of the increased volume.

What should I look for in a FPR?
I want something that will not let me down when it comes to performance, ,quality, and price.


I mave seen Injuneers fuel rail along with a few others. Im still lacking some info.

What size should the return be, -6 back to the hard line?

What is the best method for seting up the FPR?
A. Have it REG the press prior to a Y block then running it to both sides of the rail. This would keep the heat of the ENG off the return fuel

B Have fuel come in both side of the rail and run the REG off the cross over tube like Injuneer?

C other ( your Idea here )????

What is a good high flow fuel filter? I want something that will filter good as well as flow.

supermo26

Some one has to have more info than I have read so far.

Mike383LT1

check out xrp for the fittings same one's i used

as far as line goes 6an should be plenty if you want to plan for the future run 8an
for return 6an

fuel system set up straight out of kinsler's mouth
feed the rails first do a return off each line to the regulator back to the tank a LITTLE MORE LINE TO RUN CHECK OUT SOME OF MADMANS CARS he has some pics on his site that will really help

supermo26

If I were to run a -10 line from the tank hard line to the AFPR in the ENG bay, would my Racetronix pump be able to keep the pressure high enought?

If a -8 AN fitting is 1/2 how do I figure out what a -6 or -10 would be? Im not up to dat on my math.

Will a 4 port REG allow me to run a dual feed to the rail set up with out using a Y-block?


What size is the factory hard supply line?

LPEdave

In round figures, you can figure those AN numbers are in sixteenths of an inch. Ie, -10AN is 10/16=5/8, -8AN is 1/2" etc. Your stock hard lines are 6AN for feed, 5AN for return, and will handle about 600hp worth of fuel. As usual, it's going to be better and easier to use the *smallest* lines that will support the power you're trying to generate. So I missed it.... how much horsepower is this motor going to have when you're all done (inc nitrous)

Dave

Injuneer

I want to run a dual feed system with a better fuel pressure regulator. I have seen -6 and -8 fuel lines welded up to the LT1 rail. I can't seam to find a male weld on fitting. I have seen the female weld in fitting for sale but no one runs them. SO what are you guys welding up to the rail?

****My -6AN male weld-in fittings for the rails come from Chassis Shop.

http://www.chassisshop.com/

Click on "catalog", select the 3rd catalog on the left "Pro-Werks & Brackets....", then look at the high flow bungs on page 5 of 12. Not sure this is exactly what the shop ordered for me when they welded the rails, but I think this may be it.

=========
Is -6 going to be too small for a 383 Stroker that may get a N2o Kit later down the road. I don't want to limit myself by running a fuel line that is too small. If I go to big I don't want to have problems with a pressur drop because of the increased volume.

****I always thought "bigger is better" on the fuel system, but the shop that did my work (and their own 7.0-sec PRO 5.0 nitrous car, and Goerge Baxter's 1,125HP LT1) convinced me that an oversized fuel line can cause problems. When you pull 2 G's on launch, the entire "mass" of the fuel in the lines is pressing back on the pump discharge. The more fuel you have in the line, the more of a pressure drop you are going to see on launch.... just when you probably want max flow.

(I know you have the details on my system, but let me repeat them) I run a -6AN discharge line from each of two Bosch pumps, through an NOS -6AN "Y", into a single -6AN line to an SX billet fuel filter, then a -6AN line from the filter to the back of the engine. There is splits through another NOS -6AN "Y" into a -6AN line into the back of each rail. The return comes off a -6AN fitting welded to the diagonal cross-over pipe, with a -6AN return line back to a Weldon AFPR under the cowl, then a -6AN line back to the tank. This system is proven to support an 800flywheelHP engine, running a 300-shot of dry nitrous.
=============

What should I look for in a FPR?

****Look at the Weldon..... it is expensive, but reliable.
==============
What is the best method for seting up the FPR?
A. Have it REG the press prior to a Y block then running it to both sides of the rail. This would keep the heat of the ENG off the return fuel

****That is a "dead-ended" system, as used in the LS1 fuel system looks like.

=============
The stock suply line is 3/8" (=~-6AN), the stock return line is 5/16" (larger than a -4AN, smaller than a -6AN).

The "number" in an AN fitting is the approx. diameter in 16th's of an inch.

-4AN = 4/16 = 1/4"
-6AN = 6/16 = 3/8"
-8AN = 8/16 = 1/2"
-10AN = 10/16 = 5/8"

I've seen a -10AN fuel supply line used for a 1,325HP setup in a 30th SS.
================
What is a good high flow fuel filter? I want something that will filter good as well as flow.

****The SX is as good as it gets. I can dig up the model #, but if you find their catalog, they only make one that you would want.

supermo26

Motor is 383 Stroker with AFR Comp Ported LT4 210 Heads. Cam is Comp XE 236 242.Rotaing assy is all forged Callies crank, SRP Flat top pistonand Eagle rod's(I think). Comp R lifter and 1.6 Comp RR. AS&M 58 mm TB K&N cold air. Hooker LT's Mufflex Y. 3inch pipe into hooker Cat Back. SVO # 42 ( got them for a good price. I know they are over kill. I'd like to down size if possible)

Nue Tek said I should see around 430 at the rear wheels. If I ever add a shot of NOS it will be small, to keep my 2 bolt main block still together.

Is there any difference in fitting besides the price?

I ordered the Delteq today as well.

supermo26

I have found the SX fuel filter 41002 for $90.00 shipped. This is the best price I have seen so far.

Has anyone used the SX FPR?
I was wondering if they are any good? SX 15404 or 15402
check out
http://www.importpoweronline.com

for pictures and price.

So far I plan on running...
SX 41002 fuel filter
SX 15404 FPR
SX 90501 Band clamp
SX 41101 Paper element
SX 17401 -10 to -6 fittings requires 2.
NOS Y block either 17840 -8 to 2 -6 or 17836 -6 to 2 -6

Now I need to find the parts I want to use to plum the fuel rail and guage. I want a guage that will read exact fuel pressure from 20 to 80 or someting close.

supermo26

I read a post on GM High Tech about the dual feed fuel rails and adj press reg. They welded up the cross over tube holes. I didn't plan on doing this at first but now I'm wondering if I need to? Correct me if I'm wrong. If I wled up the cross tube I will need a fuel guage on both rails to monitor fuel pressure for setting the reg.

Do you think it will be best to have the tube or remove it? I will be runninng a return out of both fuel rails to each side of the reg and out to the tank.

( I found the -10an too big for my rail. The -6 to -8AN's will fit with a little grinding of the threads. I used XRP but Aero and Earyl's should be the same)

They also used -6an to -10an reducers and grinded the threads down until it fit into the rail. That looks more bulky than my -6 weld in bungs but will cover more of the welding area. My -6 bungs almost have a gap hat would need to be filled in with weld. They would also require the welder to install them stright where as a ground down reducer would center itself. Should I buy some reducers or use what I have?

What brand of guage out there is worth the money. Needs to stay on rail in eng bay all the time. Needs to be 1/8th NPT.

mongse_1

I *may* still have an SX filter here. It's -10AN I think. I'll have to check the PN on it.

Any fitting company has the male ends. I got mine through Earl's.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h&Ntt=Earl%27s

This is what I ran...
Feed:
-10AN line to a Barry Grant y-block in the engine bay
-dual -8AN to fittings on the back of the rail
-dual -8AN returns to a Weldon regulator
-single -6AN return to tank
I have no x-over on my rails either. I TIG'd the holes shut when I put the fittings on the rail.

I've got part #s for all of it somewhere.

supermo26

What is the purpose of welding the cross over holes shut?
I have the filter and reg. along with a bunch of fittings but I will need to pick up a few more since I was planning on plumin it a little different before.

SLeePer350

I am most likely the one that you are talking about regarding the post about dual feed setup.

GM High Tech Performance mag. recently did this swap, using all Aeromotive equipment.

Aermotive 13101 is an AFPR that allows for dual return lines inputs which are directed into 1 outlet (bottom of the regulator). It has a nice brass freeze plug where you can run the Autometer electric fuel press. gauge. Adjustments are made up top via allen screw.

Next, Aeromotive makes a billet Y-block, which simply is for your feed line. From Aeromotive I believe it accepts 10AN input and dual 8AN outputs,

In GMHTP article, the hard lines were dremeled off with a cutoff wheel. Next, came the small crossover tube. The crossover tube is what requires the fuel rails to be run in series from the factory. Here inlies the restriction as they described it. Going to a true dual feed setup allows the rails to be run in parallel. Each end of the rail now needs about 1/8" taken off to totally smooth out some of the weird shape from the factory cast. Once it is totally leveled out, male to male fittings were used and the entire system that they wired up used 6AN line.
The male to male fittings were tig-welded in place after they were stripped of their anodized coating.

I originally posted this idea, because not only do I plan to do this shortly, but Ken Mook who is demo-ing Bret Bauers new intake manifold was interested in the setup for that very reason.

You are looking to spend around $350 total for the conversion minus any welding charges/labor etc if you do not have access to your own welder and grinder.

That price includes $75 for the y-block and $135 for the AFPR. All of the plumbing I priced off of Summit. The Autometer gauge is an extra $200 - OUCH!

Good luck, hope this helps.

Injuneer

I think we've been able to demonstrate that the dual return lines only become necessary at 1,000(flywheel)HP and over. I use the diagonal pipe, with a -6AN fitting welded on for a single return to a Weldon AFPR, and it is working fine at 800HP.

I would also consider the NOS "Y" fittings before spending $75 for an Aeromotive "billet" "Y". The only setup I've seen running a -10AN supply line was making over 1,300HP.

supermo26

Injuneer
I agree that a dual return is over kill but the regulator I bought has two return ports. It is the SX performance reg with -6 an ports all around. No pressure port. I wanted to run the fuel system a little different but the direction for the reg show that one port is the to the tank port and the other two are labled as return. They say to send the fuel to the rail and then into the regulator back to the tank. So I am haveing to order more fitting and he think my system a little.

SLeePer350

SuperMo - you have mail, i answered all your questions, and just to make my point clear: dual returns are a must into the FPR to run rails in parallel rather than series...and the NOS being only $20 is definitely the way to go, I suggested the Aeromotive b/c thats all I could find in Summit and thats what GMHTP mag. used in their setup...

either way, I am sure it will look cool and flow a lot better with any of these various setups we are talking about...