I have a 383 and my fuel pump just went out. What is the highest flowing intank pump out there right now. Is it the walbro 340? Does that mean that pump flows 340LPH? I Do plan on spraying the car with at least a 150 shot until I can afford a fuel system rebuild. Will it be safe to spray with a intank pump and a 150 shot? I have about 420rwhp through a TH400 and a 3800 stall. Not sure if I will be pushing the limit. I would replace the whole system now but funs limit that right now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

the racetronix 255lph lt1 kit supports a tested 750rwhp

I got mine from thunderracing.com

 

I'll secound that, i just put mine in 4 nights ago..

 

Where did you read that?

We state that the single in-tank system w/harness is good for apx. 550RWHP. If you add a BAP to the harness it will extend RWHP support to apx 650-700RWHP. We have never seen a single in-tank system support 750RWHP!

 

Not quite 750 RWH, but RSKrause is using a single 255lph intank + Kenne Bell "Boost-a-Pump" and it's supporting 733 RWH.

 

Not sure about the question but the guys at Racetronix are great vendors so to them. I'd run their product in everything I own if I had the choice (and money lol)

 

He is not using a Racetronix system. He has numerous other changes to the fuel system.

The numbers we quote are using factory lines with a safety margin factoring in worst case BSFC, voltage, high pressure etc.

 

So by using a BAP you guys are raising the fuel pressure? Maybe im lost but I thought the BAPs raise the pressure on demand for force induction cars. this would not apply on n/a cars and N20 cars. In no way should you be losing fuel pressure on a n/a cars system

 

A BAP increases fuel pump volume which helps maintain pressure. Pressure is controlled by the regulator not the BAP.

 

Actually "Pressure is controlled by the regulator not the BAP"

So your raising the voltage tells you your pump is adequate.

Correct?

 

If you are not maintaining fuel rial pressure due to lack of volume then speeding up the pump usually helps to a point! Pump volume / voltage is not used as a pressure control system in a F-LT1 car.

 

so going to dual pumps intank would fix this issue instead of over working 1 pump and possible burning up?


http://home.mchsi.com/~camarozz/dual.jpg

 

over working? burning up?

A Walbro pump can be run all day at 16V w/o problems. The BAP only kicks in under WOT which is for a few seconds. We have never had a failure due to using a BAP. In actual fact starving a pump for voltage can do far more damage than running a pump at slightly elevated voltage.

 

Would it not be better to do the dual in tank?

 

Better? 'Is it required?' is the real quesion. A DP is more money and requires that your module be sent in to have it adapted / welded / wired etc...