What are the basic steps on changing the injectors on a LT1? As of right now I got this much:
1. releive fuel pressure by depressing the schradder valve.... How does this work when there is a line hooked up to it (fuel line for N20), do I just take unbolt the line and that will allow the pressure to relieve through there?
2. Unbolt the 4 fuel rail bolts
3. Pull the injectors out of the intake while attached to fuel rail
4. Unscrew the injectors from the fuel rail

... I know I am probably missing something here, so what is it? I don't have a fuel disconnect tool, so can I just leave the fuel lines attached, or can I just unbolt the lines at the end of the rail?

 

Once the car sits for about 15 minutes, the pressure in the lines should go down to the point where you can disconnect them. I would go to Napa or Autozone and buy the tool, it isn't expensive, and it will make the job alot easier.

 

Pressure should stay in the system after 15 minutes actually. If your losing most of the fuel pressure after 15 minutes your fuel pump pressure valve (check valve or something like that) is not doing its job.

You got most of it right. For #1 get rags around the schrader valve and depress the pin to let the excess fuel out. IF you have a fuel pressure guage I find it easier to use that to depressurize it.

For #4 the injectors have clips. YOu'll need to pop them out of each clip and then wiggle/pry the injectors out. They do not screw in.

If your putting new bosch injectors in the clips dont quite fit perfectly, There are two notches for them on the bosches, one of them puts the too far into the fuel rail. The 2nd notch is what you want. It can be a bit tricky getting them all off and doign it cleanly, the clips can fly off too if your not careful

 

first off fire up the air compressor and blow all the dust / dirt off the intake and around each injector so you don't get any garbage into the intake when you first pull them out. Since your car is a 93 I suspect that you will need a little bit of azz to pull them out, may be stuck in there pretty good. Cheap insurance would be stopping by the dealership and picking up new o-rings in case one is messed up or rips.

also when reinstalling the injectors, put some oil on the o-rings to keep them from sticking to the metal next time you want to remove them. syn or reg oil is ok. and if you haven't realized it when you pull the injectors there will be about 2 oz of fuel in the fuel rail which will need to be drained, just have rags handy or a little cup to try and catch the fuel.

 

yes DEFINALY lube them up a bit.. it makes putting them in FAR less frustrating.

 

wow, swapping those out was a breeze and i even neglected to get the fuel disconnect tool from autozone, just cuz I was to lazy to drive there. Unfortunetly it didn't fix my problem of the car just dumping the whole tank of gas into the motor and flooding the engine and fouling out the plugs within 3 seconds. I actually took out the 42# injectors I had the engine builder put in and I put the stock ones back in with the thought that the injectors might just be bad (I bought used SVO injectors) and that seems to have done nothing, I cleaned the plugs and pulled the piggyback adapter from the mail order tune and just put the stock chip in and even then it is dumping in just as much fuel as it did with the 42# injectors and with 3 secs in flooded the engine again and fouled out all the plugs... it is almost as if it is just dumping at 100% duty cycle at idle, quiet frustrating.

 

might have had a transistor or something go bad in the ecm. but there are individual drivers for each injector and it sounds like you are having a bulk problem.. have you checked to make sure the computer / engine is grounded? the injectors are hooked to +12v when you turn the key to run, then the ecm varies the connection to ground w/ transistors to open up the injectors. any possible way to get a scanner on there to read the duty cycles while the engine is running? about the only way you are going to figure this out, but a quick check would be fuses, fuel pressure, powers and grounds.

good luck.

 

well, I talked to alvin on here and he was saying something out 93s wanting to run rich with head/cam swaps with the stock tune, but I had never figured it would progressively get to the point were it runs this rich. I also ended up disconnecting the o2s since they wouldn't fit in the 94-97 headers I put in. So I am thinking that this might be the cause for it running progressivly richer, and the piggyback I had programmed might have just gotten a bad chip (the piggyback chip was programmed to run open loop) cuz when I attempt to run the car with the piggyback in the car just runs rediculusly rich for a few secs and then floods, but it also kicks on the fans automatically when the key is moved to the ON position which it wasnt programmed to do and when the car was actually somewhat drivable, the car wouldn't go over 3,000rpms, so as of right now I am pretty convinced it is a tuning problem. I was just swapping the injectors with the thought that the ones I bought might have just been bad.