Former 5.0 guy, gotta F body Now
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 55
From: Fresno,CA
The previous owner didnt seem to think that the engine or tranny had been rebuilt. But I find that pretty hard to beleive, I cant see how any automatic tranny can last for 274 thousand miles let alone one in a z28.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
God bless those 2.73's
probobly a highway cruiser thats why
274k miles
9 years
thats 30k miles a year consistantly
drive a car on the highway all the time and the tranny is barely doing anything
(i would't be suprised if somenoe rebuilt it somewhere along the line though... hehe maybe you have a tame 396)
probobly a highway cruiser thats why
274k miles
9 years
thats 30k miles a year consistantly
drive a car on the highway all the time and the tranny is barely doing anything
(i would't be suprised if somenoe rebuilt it somewhere along the line though... hehe maybe you have a tame 396
)
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 96
From: Chicago
Originally posted by Tirefryin94z
The previous owner didnt seem to think that the engine or tranny had been rebuilt. But I find that pretty hard to beleive, I cant see how any automatic tranny can last for 274 thousand miles let alone one in a z28.
The previous owner didnt seem to think that the engine or tranny had been rebuilt. But I find that pretty hard to beleive, I cant see how any automatic tranny can last for 274 thousand miles let alone one in a z28.
My old caprice ('84) was sold with 215K miles, original engine and trans.. Engine top end work done (cam, lifters, valve guide seals, etc...).
Rest of engine, trans and rear end all original. From what I hear, car has ~230-240Kmiles on it now, still runs good.
Of course, the trans doesn't shift like it did when the car was newer, but none the less, for a street junker, its great transportation.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,413
From: Marlton NJ
275hp stock, although with that many miles, who knows what you have left, lol
normally a healthy lt1 with dyno around 235 to the wheels.
For some good first mods, I'd get a:
CAI
Exhaust or cutout
shift kit/2800stall converter/tranny cooler
But before any of that, I'd give it a nice tune-up even if its running good now.
Plugs
Wires
Ignition Module
Get some seafoam
change all fluids
normally a healthy lt1 with dyno around 235 to the wheels.
For some good first mods, I'd get a:
CAI
Exhaust or cutout
shift kit/2800stall converter/tranny cooler
But before any of that, I'd give it a nice tune-up even if its running good now.
Plugs
Wires
Ignition Module
Get some seafoam
change all fluids
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 956
From: Winston Salem, NC
welcome to our world
One thing your going to find is that parts are more expensive for the F-body than they are for Mustangs, but don't let the sticker shock get you down. It tends to take a lot less mods to get equal performance from an F-body than it does a Mustang. We have lots of bolt on only F-bodies in the 12s and a few in the 11's
Depending on how radical you want to get with it:
CAI - build your own for around $60, its very easy and there are a few websites out there with instructions.
Headers - probably one of the best mods for these cars since the stock manifolds are junk...Long Tubes offer a bit more power, but are more expensive and are not emissions legal. Its easier to run dual exhaust off of them though (stock is a single exhaust)
cat-back - well...if your not going to run dual exhaust, you probably won't see a HUGE difference between a cat back and just a muffler welded into the stock pipes.
torque converter - another big mod for these cars, people are gaining a half second off E.T's from these, but look at spending $400-$800
cam/RR's - best deal going is the GM HOTcam kit for around $460. Comes with cam, RR's, springs, and everything you need to put them on except gaskets. Its sorta smallish for a 350 but many people are pulling nice times with them. Otherwise look at about $800 for a different grind (both of these not including the timing chain)
heads - we have some very nice head porters on this site that will work with you on what you want. Look for nighttrain66 and SkarodoM screen names.
FYI these cars have glass rear ends, so if you ever go with slicks you can expect to bust the rear end. Automatics are way easier on the rear than 6 speeds, but either one could tear the rear to shreds. At the same time some people are running the stock 10 bolt in the 11's
hope that helps out some, stick around on this site and you will learn a whole lot about your car.
One thing your going to find is that parts are more expensive for the F-body than they are for Mustangs, but don't let the sticker shock get you down. It tends to take a lot less mods to get equal performance from an F-body than it does a Mustang. We have lots of bolt on only F-bodies in the 12s and a few in the 11's
Depending on how radical you want to get with it:
CAI - build your own for around $60, its very easy and there are a few websites out there with instructions.
Headers - probably one of the best mods for these cars since the stock manifolds are junk...Long Tubes offer a bit more power, but are more expensive and are not emissions legal. Its easier to run dual exhaust off of them though (stock is a single exhaust)
cat-back - well...if your not going to run dual exhaust, you probably won't see a HUGE difference between a cat back and just a muffler welded into the stock pipes.
torque converter - another big mod for these cars, people are gaining a half second off E.T's from these, but look at spending $400-$800
cam/RR's - best deal going is the GM HOTcam kit for around $460. Comes with cam, RR's, springs, and everything you need to put them on except gaskets. Its sorta smallish for a 350 but many people are pulling nice times with them. Otherwise look at about $800 for a different grind (both of these not including the timing chain)
heads - we have some very nice head porters on this site that will work with you on what you want. Look for nighttrain66 and SkarodoM screen names.
FYI these cars have glass rear ends, so if you ever go with slicks you can expect to bust the rear end. Automatics are way easier on the rear than 6 speeds, but either one could tear the rear to shreds. At the same time some people are running the stock 10 bolt in the 11's
hope that helps out some, stick around on this site and you will learn a whole lot about your car.
I EXPECT anything GM to go at least 300k with good maintiance.