forged pistons
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 245
From: Peoria, IL...Champaign, IL for college
forged pistons
Hey guys, I'm thinking about buying an f-body for really cheap next spring then building the engine up into a monster. I know I will need a forged bottom end if I plan to run a s/c. My question is, if I build the LT1 up with forged pistons, 9:1 compression maybe, will it still perform well before I slap an s/c on there? I probably wont have the money to put an s/c on as soon as the engine is built so I was wondering if it's ok to drive it with low compression even though I don't have a power adder. Thanks guys
as long as you have some good head work and cam to make up for it. it will most likely run better than a stock LT1 motor. depending on how much boost you want to run you might want to go a little lower on the C/R 8.5 so you can boost the crap out of it
My buddies S/C formula ran a 8.30 with a close match to a cc 306 cam but more sutted to a blower and a little less than 9.0 CR slighty ported heads too. and ran 7.50 with the blower on it but it shows 12psi on the guage at 6k rpms. but its a 6-8 lbs kit
Just make sure you are going to get a blower if you build a blower motor.
My buddies S/C formula ran a 8.30 with a close match to a cc 306 cam but more sutted to a blower and a little less than 9.0 CR slighty ported heads too. and ran 7.50 with the blower on it but it shows 12psi on the guage at 6k rpms. but its a 6-8 lbs kit
Just make sure you are going to get a blower if you build a blower motor.
Wow, thats amazing, I was actually wondering the same thing today and was going to post about it. I am wondering how a s/c custom cam would drive N/A? How much power would it be sacrificing?
Soooo...TTT for us
Soooo...TTT for us
Depends on how much you want to spend. They say that a Scat 900 crank is good for 700 HP, but if I was going to build a blower car pushing over 500 HP at the crank I'd watn the extra $300 insurance going with a forged crank over a cast one.
Your goal is to build a sweet blower car. Therefore, IMO, don't compromise on what will make a decent non-blower car for the time being. Build it all-out blower specs, and just put up with it until you get the blower. Don't sacrifice power on the blown side just to have a bit more before you get the blower.
JMHO!
Your goal is to build a sweet blower car. Therefore, IMO, don't compromise on what will make a decent non-blower car for the time being. Build it all-out blower specs, and just put up with it until you get the blower. Don't sacrifice power on the blown side just to have a bit more before you get the blower.
JMHO!
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 245
From: Peoria, IL...Champaign, IL for college
Originally posted by Dave88LX
Depends on how much you want to spend. They say that a Scat 900 crank is good for 700 HP, but if I was going to build a blower car pushing over 500 HP at the crank I'd watn the extra $300 insurance going with a forged crank over a cast one.
Your goal is to build a sweet blower car. Therefore, IMO, don't compromise on what will make a decent non-blower car for the time being. Build it all-out blower specs, and just put up with it until you get the blower. Don't sacrifice power on the blown side just to have a bit more before you get the blower.
JMHO!
Depends on how much you want to spend. They say that a Scat 900 crank is good for 700 HP, but if I was going to build a blower car pushing over 500 HP at the crank I'd watn the extra $300 insurance going with a forged crank over a cast one.
Your goal is to build a sweet blower car. Therefore, IMO, don't compromise on what will make a decent non-blower car for the time being. Build it all-out blower specs, and just put up with it until you get the blower. Don't sacrifice power on the blown side just to have a bit more before you get the blower.
JMHO!
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