I think I've decided on Golens 383 shortblock for my rebuild. After doing some searches, I found out that a 383 actually helps in passing emissions which was one of my concerns.

Now the cam is a 305 with 1.6 SA .544/.544, and the heads are afr 180cc 2.02 1.60. 260/194@ .600

Will this be a good setup for a 383? I know at least someone is gonna say get a 503. But I've heard those are harder on the valvetrain, and I allready got this 305, and I dont want much bigger. Im looking for 360-370 RWhp and 380 lb. torque?

Ok so the big question is.....econo 383 for $2599 OR forged 383 $3599
http://www.golenengineservice.com/ht...rt_blocks.html

Or just srp forged pistons instead of "hyperucraptit" and stick with the eagle cast steel crank? What will be the most reliable setup is really my question.

 

For those power goals, the "econo" short block will be fine. But if you're thinking of boost or spray in the future... now would be the time to plan for it, and go with the forged crank&rods.

 

Nope never ever will boost or spray......

 

Then the "econo" short block would be fine. I'm using quotes around econo, because the cheaper short block is still a quality unit... it's just not built for up to 1000HP like the forged unit. Both blocks appear to use the same rings, bearings and studs; and both blocks are assembled in the same fashion, according to the website.

I had my 383 built with forged crank, rods, and pistons, which means it's really over-built at the moment. I just wanted to future-proof the engine in case I decide to add a blower or nitrous down the road.

 

I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that they wish they had built a less sturdy block.

 

So the forged 383 will definately be more sturdy? I read on here that the hypernuetectic pistons wear better than forged. They just hate detonation. With this cam i wont have to worry about that though? Only happens when spraying/boosting? Or does it have more to do with CR/DCR.

I need more opinions on this, I dont want to spend more if there's no reason to. On the other hand, I dont want to sacrifice any durability, or longevity of this engine with my setup.

 

Forged pistons shouldnt really be used in a street motor unless you intend to spray or boost it IMO. This is because the forged pistons will actually rattle on cold startup where hypernuetectic pistons shouldnt, theyd be just like stock. You wont be pushing the econo 383 anywhere near what it can handle with your setup and I strongly suggest a larger cam... not necessarily anything that is harder on valvetrain like the XEs but something with more duration to take advantage of the extra cubes.

 

Not all forgings rattle, there are low-expansion alloys out there, and mahle's have a coating that allows closer piston-wall clearance. The rattle also has a lot to do with the short skirt pistons that are necessary for 383 builds.

 

i just order a 383 from chad g. Great guy, great business. I always live by the motto - go big or go home - i opt'd for the best of the best, ie: parts. If your trying to save money just build a forged 355 and run some spray.

 

Personally, I'd do it right the first time because 99% of the time people get the need to go faster..I went forged 3yrs ago on my 383 and havent sprayed it yet..I will in the future though :P
My pistons don't "rattle" either...runs no different than my stock 350 did...well, cept for the added power

Cody

 

[QUOTE=SuperDavez28]So the forged 383 will definately be more sturdy? I read on here that the hypernuetectic pistons wear better than forged. They just hate detonation. With this cam i wont have to worry about that though? Only happens when spraying/boosting? Or does it have more to do with CR/DCR.[QUOTE]

Detonation is affected by a lot of factors, although obviously DCR & Octane are the big ones.

Look at it this way...

There's nothing wrong with Hypers, and they are perfectly good pistons that give good, reliable service over a long period of time. This is especially true if you buy quality pieces.

However, their most common application is on "daily-driver" factory engines where the assumption is that the engine will never be modified to produce more HP.



Also note that the two blocks you're looking at have different pistons AND a different crank; the $1,000 difference isn't just for pistons.


Clearly, the forged option is affordable for you, otherwise you wouldn't be agonizing over this; you would just get the cast crank/pistons.


Ultimately, you're going to have to make your own decision here. I can't spend your money for you and neither can anyone else here.

If you're looking for a consensus opinion...? I think most folks would go the forged route, provided their budget allowed for it.

Why?

Because it'll never be cheaper to build more capability into your block than RIGHT NOW.

 

The cc305 cam with good tuning and well ported heads will get you 370-380rwhp that your looking for.

With that said, that power level will make your car feel slow after driving it for amonth. Trust me when I say you get used to the feeling and want more. You may want to add a small shot (50hp) every now and again. All these new cars coming out, blown cobras, C6 vettes, C6 ZO6, 500hp vipers...if it were me I'd want to be competitve, and 380rwhp will only compete with a few of the cars mentioned above...and thats assuming they are stock.

Thats just me though...

Here is a thought, meet halfway with Chad.Ask him if he can upgrade the base 383 with forged pistons and keep the cast crank (IMO forged rods/pistons are more important thatn the forged crank). That should get you around $3000 for the shortblock.

 

i agonized over these same issues as well recently and decided to not go cheap on anything. mine is a daily driver making probably around the same ballpark HP as you and i don't really have any plans to spray it, etc either......but you just never know what you might want to do later and whether your goals for the car might change down the road. i just enjoy laying in bed at night knowing i used high-quality parts that were probably overkill for what im doing. i like that feeling. i'm not a mechanic and plan on driving it for a long time without having it torn down again unless something breaks. i even went with arp stuff even though, once again, probably not needed for my level of performance. am i throwing money away? it's debatable, but at least when i kick it, i won't be getting that funny feeling in my gut i used to get when everthing was stock, wondering if this was the time something might break good luck with your decision and project!

 

well said...

 

I would just go with the cast crank , forged rods and a good piston, if you keep the revs below 6500 these will last a long time. Have the heads worked and the power will top the 380 hp mark and torque will be over 400 , even with the cc305 cam.