Finally, I got my new 355 running.

Here are the specs:
2 bolt block bored .030" over, lightly decked, align honed w/ threaded oil plugs
Melling select SV oil pump w/ GM white spring
Oil adapter bypass plugged w/ oil cooler removed
Mahle .030" 6" forged pistons
Scat 6" forged connecting rods
Reconditioned stock LT1 crankshaft
ARP main studs, rod & head bolts
LE2 ported heads
LE1.5 high lift cam
Comp 1.6 pro-mag NSA roller rockers
Comp chromoly 7.00" push-rods
LT4 ED timing set
ASP under drive pulley
LE ported intake manifold
52mm ported throttle body w/ LT1 aluminum cover proudly displayed
Trick flow elbow
30# SVO fuel injectors
MSD coil and super conductor OTVC plug wires
AS&M cold air induction
RK sport mid-length headers
Borla cat-back w/e-cutout without cat
Aluminum drive shaft
Custom Kevlar clutch
4.10 ring/pinion
Madz28.com tune
All tubular rear suspension

I have about 50 miles on the motor and I fired on it for the first time today. First gear just smoked the tires, but I took it to 6K RPM in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. The new motor revving up to about 3K RPM feels like my old motor but then the power starts to come on and it does not let up a bit all the way to 6K and most likely even higher than that. The power just feels incredible. The exhaust tone just flat out sounds mean as hell, it has a nice lope and screams I aint stock. Oil pressure is 40 at idle ad 70+ at WOT and it runs smooth as silk with no funky vibes.

My old near all-bolt on motor made 301RWHP so it is very obvious I am making a great deal more now according to the butt dyno. I am expecting this new motor to rev to about 6.4K RPM once it is broken in. It feels very streetable and has not shown any signs of funky or unwanted characteristics, exactly as I wanted.

It appears that the left BLM's are 128 +-10 points or so and are in check but the right is seeing 160 at at idle so I will need to address this. It appears that I have a bit of minor knock retard but it tends to come and go. It is most noticeable at light throttle but is not present at WOT.

Once it has around 500 miles or so it will go to the dyno. My goal has been for 390-400 RWHP and mid 12's in the quarter or so. I think i will be close.
Thanks to Lloyd Elliot and all who helped me to get this thing going.

It also looks sharp too, I painted everything including the whole engine compartment.

 

Awesome combo! good job on the build.

You have the exact same 355 rotaing assembly components as the 355 I just built, (but mine is waiting on the Edelbrock LT4 intake before I install it).

I like the idea of using the LT1 crank and the Mahle 6" rod .030" over pistons and the SCAT 6" rods.

I expect your motor, (and hopfully mine), to be a smooth yet strong runner.

Here's a link to my build page, (using most of the same parts you did).
LINK----close your eyes to the obvious advertising and read only the fellow enthusiest tech info

 

Beautiful setup!

Dan

 

I'm hoping all that will be in my car by the end of summer!!!! Nice build bro!

 

A man that knows how to break a motor in the right way. I like that. Nice job on the engine bay and parts selection.

 

Sweet motor compartment! The red detail on the alternator is a nice touch.

 

Lookin great

 

Glad to see it being broken in the right way.... hard

 

Looking good, nice work on the engine bay.

 

Looks nice, what intake is that?
Edit, found it in the 1st post. How do you like the intake, and do you think it would fit if the radiator cover thing is pushed back 1/2"? My lingenfelter barley fits, and my becool radiator pushed back the top cover piece on the radiator about 1/2".

 

Not sure about if it were shoved back a bit. I know things right now are tight.

 

Looks great man!!

Are those headers exact replicas of the AS&M mid lengths? Because someone once told me the OTVC wires wouldnt work with the AS&Ms and those wires are what I want to run.

 

I am glad it is actually up and running.

I know it has been a long tiome coming.

get it broke in and some more tuning to dial in everything then get us some dynoi #'s and track times.

 

The RK's are a AS&M knock off. They are 99% the exact same. The #8 primary is a tad different and the openings are round rather than d-shaped. Oh yeah they are a lot cheaper too. Both brands are a mega PITA to install and requred a lot of creativity to get them right.

For the OTVC wires to work best I had to put a straight boot on the #7 wire, the rest use the right angle boot. The wire clearance is great, none of mine come close to toching a header. Whoever told you that was dead wrong.

 

Great job man, i am doing a very similar build, i sent you a PM asking for a couple of Part Numbers, if you can, reply back.
Thanks JC