Forged 355 LE2 head / LE1.5 cam LT1 done.
First performance numbers.
I have not had time to get to the track yet plus I still have some tune issues, but I have some Datamaster logs to go on for now. I know these are not accurate like the track but for comparing one logged run to another I can see if progree is being made.
The Datamaster 1/4 calculation on my old motor was 13.3 seconds.
My new motor (see sig) is 12.8 seconds with Knock retard galore.
So I am already seeing a drop of 5/10 of a second, to start. Once the KR is in check there should be a great deal more. I can really tell when the timing is pulled.
The car is definitely faster especially in the upper RPM range, now it is time to concentrate on the tune. If anyone wants to review my datalog and comment please let me know.
I have not had time to get to the track yet plus I still have some tune issues, but I have some Datamaster logs to go on for now. I know these are not accurate like the track but for comparing one logged run to another I can see if progree is being made.
The Datamaster 1/4 calculation on my old motor was 13.3 seconds.
My new motor (see sig) is 12.8 seconds with Knock retard galore.
So I am already seeing a drop of 5/10 of a second, to start. Once the KR is in check there should be a great deal more. I can really tell when the timing is pulled.
The car is definitely faster especially in the upper RPM range, now it is time to concentrate on the tune. If anyone wants to review my datalog and comment please let me know.
Last edited by wrd1972; Jun 16, 2007 at 08:53 PM.
Just finished up under the hood, installed fuel rail covers from a LT4, I also gave it a much deserved cleaning:


Did the 750 mile oil change and all looks great, there was a bit of junk in the filter at 300 miles but the consensus is it was normal for a new motor. The knock retard is much more under control now, the big problem was the non GM knock sensor and the fact that I installed it way to loose. The LT4 KM was also making things much worse, I installed the LT1 KM and the knock disappeared.
Right now I zero knock retard at NON WOT conditions and an occasional blip at WOT, this will be corrected when I get the dyno tune. Because of the brutally hot conditions, I did not make it to the dyno last week, I am going to postpone that till the fall when temperatures are more desirable for tuning.
The car is brutally fast compared to the old motor and I could not be happier plus it appears that the mods made zero impact to miles per gallon. I raced a near stock LS1 hardtop with lid and catback and absolutely destroyed it as well as a very quick 255 RWHP turbo Miata weighing in at 2500 pounds. I am also getting nervous about the 10 bolt rear end's future.
I will work on getting some audio and video for you guys in the next week or so.


Did the 750 mile oil change and all looks great, there was a bit of junk in the filter at 300 miles but the consensus is it was normal for a new motor. The knock retard is much more under control now, the big problem was the non GM knock sensor and the fact that I installed it way to loose. The LT4 KM was also making things much worse, I installed the LT1 KM and the knock disappeared.
Right now I zero knock retard at NON WOT conditions and an occasional blip at WOT, this will be corrected when I get the dyno tune. Because of the brutally hot conditions, I did not make it to the dyno last week, I am going to postpone that till the fall when temperatures are more desirable for tuning.
The car is brutally fast compared to the old motor and I could not be happier plus it appears that the mods made zero impact to miles per gallon. I raced a near stock LS1 hardtop with lid and catback and absolutely destroyed it as well as a very quick 255 RWHP turbo Miata weighing in at 2500 pounds. I am also getting nervous about the 10 bolt rear end's future.
I will work on getting some audio and video for you guys in the next week or so.
Last edited by wrd1972; Aug 11, 2007 at 05:32 PM.
I'm glad to hear your knock is gone! I've been chasing false knock, and it has improved considerably, partly from loosening my knock sensor a bit I think. But it's interesting that yours was TOO loose. How tight is it now?
I torqued to about 15 foot pounds which is spec. Before it was most likely less than 3 cause it would easy turn by hand. That was causing it to pick up tons of KR due to the vibes. I personally dont see how even running it looser than spec can help, to me that just makes it more prone to vibes that will set it off.
Hand tight, yes that IS loose. Ok, thanks. I'm at about 15 now myself, but initially had it tightened hard like a pipe plug. I suppose too tight could deform the housing, throwing the capacitive element inside out of tolerance. Or, too tight makes the joint stiffer than intended, causing the sensor body to have a higher resonant mounting frequency than intended. Don't really know, I loosened mine based on a tip from another poster who had his too tight, and it seemed to help. Beautiful motor compartment by the way.
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