agree with all said above, I already had the rods and pistons at a very good price and asked the shop if they were comfortable with the parts I had already.. then the rest was up to them.

I knew when I said 500rwhp with nitro was enough for the stock crank there would be a quick reply.. plenty make more but I would still never go over 500rwhp in a daily driven two-bolt car on the stock cast crank, it is a personal choice to push it or not.

looking at what RSKrause said above 2-3k for the shortblock still puts you at my estimate of 5k or so with the LE2 heads/cam unless you find them in the classifieds for less which happens occaionally. Also remember that nitrous costs money to refill, something to think about at 16..

Also agree with 96caprice. I am 36 with the car I have now and about 12 years of lessons learned during building and rebuilding it.. 400rwhp would of killed me pretty quick back at 16, so would a bolt-on 300 come to think of it. I know my kids will have to be content with a joint project we will build together and a 4banger junker with airbags to drive to school.

 

I am surprised nobody has said this but I think you are in over your head. Being 16 there is ALOT to learn, I would reccomend you read and research over the next few years, if not you will spend alot more than if you do not. Ask me how I know? Another thing I am surpised no one mentioned is you have NO supporing mods. How many miles are on the car? Put it this way a basic tune up, TB, converter or clutch(A4/M6), gears, intake, RR, LTs, fuel pump, install fees (unless you do it yourself), etc. So figure in another $3,000+ (AT LEAST). THEN you should worry about a short block with H/C. Are you putting the short block in the car? Is this your only car? Do you have the tools, space, time, know how, friends you TRUST that know their stuff? May I ask why you are in need of forged short block? High mileage? Becuase it sounds cool? There are H/C and N2O cars out there on stock short block, Z-RATED94's car comes to mind. So I would say do full bolt ons, then H/C, and if you still need more power N2O. Run that untill you NEED a short block. Again there is alot more to it then "I need a quality 355 short block, for a great price". Either way good luck.

 

A lot of good advice here so far. Worry about making what you have now run the best it can. Has the car had a recent tune-up, wires, fluids changed, etc. Do you have a CAI yet or a better exhaust system. How about doing that first and then getting a new chip for the 93 computer? Then move on to some subframe connectors, LCAs, etc. If it's an auto, (I can't remember if you said or not), how about a quality converter. That plus some gears and sticky tires would cut your et by 3-5 tenths right there. Theres plenty to do, and money to spend, before you worry about a better bottom end for your motor.

 

Exactly! That is basically what I said, Rick.

 

I will agree with 91RSLT1 and Z-Rated94. Unless you HAVE to do what you've been talking about I would do bolt ons and other mods first. I built an LT1 from a bare block up and boy does it add up in the end. I think you will end up way over your head and never get it done unless you just have a ton of money sitting around at 16. I would read and learn as much as you can while doing upgrades that will compliment a higher HP engine. Also better to experiment with nitrous on your current engine if you are going to do it yourself, because if you do something wrong and blow your engine it's better to do it on this one than one you just poored a bunch of money in. Just my opinion.

 

I bought a 355 block, forged pistons, forged rods, and forged crank off a board member for $1000. Everything was brand new. then i bought a head/intake pkg off another member for $1500. Then you figure about 1000-1500 for other parts such as injectors, tb, etc.

If your car is completely stock right now and runs fine, look into some basic bolt-ons such as exhaust intake and suspension parts. i bought my car when i was 16, did some basic bolt ons and then went from there. i wouldnt suggest the rebuild until you absolutely need it because its gonna cost alot more than just pistons/rods.

 

Yes it is James, but he's young and probably needs to hear it more than once.

 

LOL, true but we have all been there. That is why this board is so usefull. There is always someone who knows more than you, or you could learn from.

 

So true, this board has saved me a few times, and has helped me learn a ton.

 

Guys i know. I have set aside $4500 dollars just for my motor. and i want to do this right the first time around thats why i asked for the help. Not to be hassled. i know about supporting mods like rr's, injectors, full exhaust, intake,fuel pump, tb, ported intake, good tune, ported intake manifold, deleting of AIR and EGR. I know. for a tranny i waqs going to go with a performabuilt stage 2, and set up a ford 9". This will be my project that im hoping to have done by summer. All of this isnt going into my 93. I have a 95 that i have done stripped. that car had 102k on everything. Dont take me for stupid. I know i have lots to learn and im trying. I mean obviously thats what im doing now. So without being criticized i could use the help. i see your guys points. I work at an automotive shop locally thats owned by by my uncle so i have access to tools, lifts, and knowledgeable staff. I want the car to have decent street manners and no i dont have to pass emissions. So.... with more information what can you guys recomend.

 

If you do want to buy rods, the Callies Compstar are really nice at a medium price. They are much nicer than the Eagle at just a bit more $$$. They are by far the nicest off-shore forged rod I have ever seen. At least all of the machining and inspection are done here, it is just the raw forging that is outsourced. Ditto for the crank if you really want or need to replace the stocker. In fact, Callies is a good source for a complete rotating assembly using their crank and rods with your choice of pistons, rings, bearings, etc. They can supply the whole thing, including balancing, at a good price with excellent service. I have bought a couple from them and have been very satisfied.

Rich

 

I agree, I recently bought an eagle rotating assembly......callies is better for a little more....and if you get a rotating assembly then might as well get a stroker too

If I could do it over again I would have gone callies and a dome ross piston. Too late now I have a 50cc chamber

 

The cam I had was a custom grind from comp and it was mild, but made some good power and sounded good. Info in my sig. You could go with a more aggressive cam, but is just up to you. I could find you a video probably to show you how the cam sounded

 

No disrepect intented. But I built up my car the other way. And I still need a race trans, stronger driveshaft, 6-point, ect. The first two will be done this spring. I want to build a 355 for a two stage, but that will be the last thing on my list, not the first. In the mean time I'll play with what I have.
And Rich is right about the Compstar stuff. I don't think you could go wrong there.

 

Also no disrespect intended. It sounds like you have done your "home work", I am just saying make sure it is all done. It is not cheap or easy as Z-RATED94 said. My earlier post was due to the fact that all too often people say "What will I need to have a 500rwhp DD?" or " I want a 10second DD", etc. without realizing what those setups would entail. Hell I am still learning myself,as I am no where near either. I wasted a hand full of $ which could of been bettter spent else where, such as a converter instead of a Dig6 and my TB. The list goes on, just make sure you have a plan of attack. Again I learned $ and parts does not equal a well thought out setup (or a "quick" setup for that matter). Good luck.