I am using the flywheel tq specs from http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/torquespecs.htm of 74 ft/lbs, are these the bolts that mount the flywheel to the crank's specs?

thanks again

 

Yes, 74ftlbs is the spec for the flywheel to crankshaft bolts. 22ftlbs is for the pressure plate to flywheel bolts...

dont forget that loctite.

 

Does GM loctite their flywheel bolts?

I agree that this is a good idea but I have never done this and I have never had any flywheel bolts back out.

 

Loctite them, you don't want a flywheel bolt backing out

Your also going to need a friend to keep the crank from rotating when you torque down the bolts. I usually have a buddy use a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley or hub.

 

GM does not use loctite on the bolts. I used loctite though when I replaced my flexplate just for reassurance. There is a flywheel wrench you can buy so the flywheel will not turn while you torque the bolts.

 

If you have a friend you can have them hold the ballancer bolt so the flywheel bolts won't back out.

 

Holding the crank and/or rotating the engine with the harmonic ballancer bolt is a very bad idea, as you can easily over torque this bolt.

 

I just use a piece of 2x4 to wedge between the flywheel teeth and the floor.
You can also just slip a phillips screwdriver through a pressure plate mounting hole which will easily grab something. Works every time.

 

while under the car I put presure on the bolts facing away from the center of the flywheel. This made it so the engine would not turn as I torqued the bolts.

 

ARP Flywheel bolts are a GREAT investment (10 bucks). The shallow headed hex head stockers make for a real pain. The ARP bolts have a taller head and are 12point .

Ryan

 

I'll need to double check the torque value, but my memory has it that the values were nearly identical.

 

I bought these, "113-200-2802" ARP bolts from Thunder when I was rebalancing the flywheel to the new assembly. Weird thing is, they didn't fit! Had to use the stockers...