I have removed my FLP's to do a head swap. It has been a year since I installed them & I used the header bolts supplied & it immediately brough back the horrors of how hard it is to turn these bolts. It uses a 7/16 wench/socket to turn them. What & where can I get header bolts that use at the largest a 3/8 wrench/socket to turn them?

Thanks

 

Get Stage 8 locking bolts. You can use allen wrenchs. I found it to be EXTREMELY helpful. Even if you strip one of the bolts with a regular wrench you can still use an allen wrench.

It would be pretty tough to strip them though.

 

I have 1 inch stage 8 bolts also. I believe Thunder racing sells them but shop around first. Try looking into a set from ARP. I think they use 3/8 heads.

Since you have your headers off, check your flanges for straightness. I just had mine off for my head and cam swap and the driverside header flange was warped a little. I've read about this problem from a few people on this board. Just a heads up.

 

Also while having the headers off screw in your bolts to make sure the threads are nice and clean. You can get a tap at most auto shops that just threads in and cleans up the threads. Careful though. Camaro heads are aluminum and you can mess up the threads easier than an iron head.

 

You can't use the locks with the stage 8's on nFLP's. The bolts are up against the primaries. Infact the only way to get a couple bolts on now are to have them sitting in the header before you put it on the head. Very limited space.

 

I used ARP bolts on my 1 3/4 SLP's and they worked great. 3/8 head stainless steel, I can get to almost all of them with just an open end wrench because its so small.

 

Yes, that's actually true of many header for the LT1. You will have to modify the retaining clips to make them fit. I had to dremel all the clips I used.

 

Just yesterday I reinstalled one of my FLP headers but this time I used ARP stainless steel 3/4" hex head bolts and OMG what a difference. All the bolts started with ease, even the #5 primary which I had to grind the head with the original bolts. They also use a 3/8" head which will take a smaller wrench enalbing the use of the closed end more often. Get them, they're worth gold compared to the ones supplied with the FLP kit.
Just my .02

 

ARP 3/8" here too. Work great. Still a little tough to get at a few but they look more purty.

 

I used ARP 12pt bolts on my Hookers. Then i used a dremel tool to grind down the wrench to fit them and i could reach all the bolts with ease. Not sure if they route the same way as FLPS but i would assume their close. Oh yea, i went through the few days of heat cycle and tightening and they have'nt backed out since. Oh yea, and not a leak with the Fel-pro dry gaskets either if you havent decided on them yet

 

Thanks. That is what I was going to get.

 

Where did you hear that from? I got all of my locks on with no problem. There were 2 retainining clips that needed to be trimmed a little, but that was done in about 1 miniute with a cutting pliers.

If anyone is having trouble putting the retainers on try flipping them around or lossen/tighten the bolt to get the clip to line up correctly.