First off, let me say that I am not going to do a cam right now, Im broke. I am just going to do the repair for now. I plan on cleaning it up before I put it back together too. What parts am I going to need? Obviously the new gasket but is there anything else? Any tips or tricks from the veterans? Thanks.

Bo

 

Tube of Black RTV.
Fuel line disconnect tool.
Digital camera! Or remember where those vaccuum lines go.
Shopvac...Suck up the old gasket when you scrape it off.

Thats all I can think of, anything im missing people?

 

Thanks for the reply. Lets go over the list...

Tube of Black RTV..........CHECK
Fuel line disconnect tool..........NOT CHECK
Digital camera! Or remember where those vaccuum lines go.......CHECK
Shopvac...Suck up the old gasket when you scrape it off....CHECK

Looks like Im in good shape to rip into this little project. Where would I be able to pick up one of those fuel line disconnect tools? Or is there a way to get the line off without it? Is there anyone else? I am buying the gasket today and tearing her apart probably on Monday so there is still time to let me know if I need anything else. Thanks ALOT!!!

Bo

 

Autozone, its a little round plastic clip looking thing. You slide it into the connector where the line connects to the rail. You need this tool, its like $4.00 at autozone, because you have to buy all 6 sizes. I think ours is the blue one.

 

LT1 Intake gasket Fel-Pro 1284 for about $20. There are two Fel-Pro versions an oem type replacement for less and the best one above.

 

yeah, i am doing the same, i actually have pulled the manifold 3 times in less than 48 hours.
u will need to do the following to make it easy on yourself.

1.loosen tensionor
2. take off Alternator bracket.
3. remove fuel rails (4 bolts + all the clips)
4. go to town on Manifold bolts. they are 9/16 size.
5. remember where all your hoses go, the haynes manual doesnt help too much in that area.
6. Be sure to seal the gaskets and the front and rear of the manifold. I used Ultra Copper sealant, but Black should work as well

I also didnt remove the fuel rails completely, just hung em with a bungee cord to give me some room. the whole operation shouldnt take more than an hour to do.
also follow the torque pattern as listed in the Haynes manual for putting the bolts back in.
Good luck

 

Wow, thanks for all your help guys. I was afraid that this was going to be a ful weekend project. I neighbor of mine had the Haynes manual so i will be borrowing it.
lrm95transam, why have you pulled the manifold 3 times? That sux man.
Thanks again to everyone for the info and part #'s and suck. I will let you know how it turns out.

Bo

 

I didn't see it above but most silicon needs time to cure. So after you are done, you have to let it sit without starting for at least overnight.

I did the repair two times many years ago before I realized I should read the instructions and let it cure.

 

Good point, I had not thought of that. I will be sure to let it seal totally overnight. Thanks.

Bo

 

lrm95transam, where do you live in Gwinnet? I am from Roswell originally and just recently moved.

 

I've had the manifold off a few times as well.. I'll throw in my 'tips & tricks' -

Use a flipped over shoe box (or similar) to hold the manifold bolts, it will be a very rough mock of the intake manifold. I find it easier to reinstall the bolts if I poke some holes in the box (designate one end the front) and put the bolts in the holes that correspond to where they go on the manifold. See what I'm saying?

As for the installation, make sure you clean the hell out of all mating surfaces. Then on the front and the back of the block mating surfaces, make some deep scores. I used the corner of a file and made some X's all the way across. The block is iron, so put some weight on it to get some depth.. Also, I like to sand those areas a bit with the roughest paper I can find.

Clean those two areas again. Now you'll have some very rough mating surfaces for the RTV to stick to. This is absolutely vital IMO.

If you still have your EGR, consider using some high temp copper RTV instead of the black stuff. Lay down a thick bead for the front and back and pay attention to the corner areas where the heads/manifold/block meet up.

For dropping in the manifold -
Use a couple of broken pieces of pencil in a couple of bolt holes for alignment. Just a few inches long will be fine. It's important to get the manifold down precisely in one shot to avoid ruining the seal made with the RTV. You don't want to be sliding the manifold around trying to line things up and wind up shoving all the RTV off.

It'd also be a good time to paint that manifold if you're so inclined.

I did mine with several coats of hi-temp red and then 2 coats of hi-temp clear coat. With polished up raised runners it looks awesome Again, CLEAN the crap out of the manifold if you're going to do this. You don't want the paint flaking off later on down the road..

Good luck!

 

im in gwinnett, Lawrenceville to be exact

 

ok stupid question, but what is the bolt paturn? i did it a way... not going to mention which way cause its prolly wrong, but it hasn't leaked in about 8k miles ... i just wanna check if i did it wrong or not

 

the bolt torque pattern is listed in the haynes manual, i would recommend following it in the futuer, gotta figure its there for a reason, but if its not leakin

 

Hey lrm95transam, sorry to bug you again but have we hung out before up at Wendy's in Alpharetta? Your car and mods sound very familiar. If so, hows the club doing? See ya.

Bo