LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Fixing Intake Manifold Leak....any tips?

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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 11:15 AM
  #16  
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Sandwich cereal box between layers of RTV. It makes a damn good gasket material, and helps resist blowout
Jeez. Don't ever do this.. Some of the advice on this board just goes beyond any rhyme or reason.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.

There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.

It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..

I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..

For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
My old gasket was replaced at the dealer, they used some kind of black RTV and it leaked so I did not use it when I fixed the leak. There are indeed crappy RTV's of all colors. Permatx Ultra copper hasn't hosed me yet though. All IMO of course
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #18  
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Sometimes there are bad batches of any sealant.. I remember we got a shipment of Grey GM sealant and it was partially cured or looked like it had frozen at one point.. Very hard to dispense..

Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black. I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 01:46 PM
  #19  
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Aight thanks for all your responses..I might start it on thursday if I get the chance. Anyways, the RTV I got is MEGA Copper 888 by VersaChem. Its the "best" kind at discount auto. Temp range up to 700 degrees. I should be fine if I use this, along with some blue locktite on the bolts...and either dimple or cut in some groves?
I have a dremel, you think that will be enough power to cut in a trench? If not ill just sand it down to make it rough and dimple it.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 02:35 PM
  #20  
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Anyways, the RTV I got is MEGA Copper 888 by VersaChem. Its the "best" kind at discount auto.
You got what? Versa Who? Get a real name brand sealant not Versa-Chem or Valco. You can't go wrong with Permatex sealant. No wonder you guys are having problems, you are using sealants that someone is selling out of the trunk of their car.

Don't dig a trench. Just get a sharp center punch and a hammer and make a line of dents about 1/8" apart along the whole wall in front and back and on the bottom of the manifold on the machined ends. Don't do anything to the side faces of the manifold.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 03:33 PM
  #21  
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..and don't use loctite. Use thread sealant. Most of the bolts go through into the head (valve cover area) where they are exposed to oil.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #22  
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just marking this for when i do mine
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by dave1w41
Jeez. Don't ever do this.. Some of the advice on this board just goes beyond any rhyme or reason.
Guess what we do when we don't have a certain gasket? We make one. And cereal box works damn well.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by dave1w41
You got what? Versa Who? Get a real name brand sealant not Versa-Chem or Valco. You can't go wrong with Permatex sealant. No wonder you guys are having problems, you are using sealants that someone is selling out of the trunk of their car.

Don't dig a trench. Just get a sharp center punch and a hammer and make a line of dents about 1/8" apart along the whole wall in front and back and on the bottom of the manifold on the machined ends. Don't do anything to the side faces of the manifold.
Well I didnt think discount auto would carry no name brands. Where do I find this Permatex stuff since the stuff I got is soo bad.
Also where do I find thread sealant?
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:20 PM
  #25  
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Question loctite

Originally posted by shoebox
..and don't use loctite. Use thread sealant. Most of the bolts go through into the head (valve cover area) where they are exposed to oil.

thanks for chimming in there, I wasn't to sure about using loctite on my header bolts, what if you had to take off your headres? I had use some peratex heat & antivibration for threads, so far they haven't losen up.

strange thing is that it was the same 2 or 3 bolts that losen. passenger side the back 2 or 3 bolts.
zoso
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 07:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
Sometimes there are bad batches of any sealant.. I remember we got a shipment of Grey GM sealant and it was partially cured or looked like it had frozen at one point.. Very hard to dispense..

Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black. I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.
Well, if you insist on quoting experience, I guess you COULD be right

(no mas, no mas!!!!)
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 09:33 PM
  #27  
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Guess what we do when we don't have a certain gasket? We make one. And cereal box works damn well.
Please tell me you are jokin. A cereal box IS NOT a gasket in anyone's world.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 10:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by MACGI 98 Z28
Please tell me you are jokin. A cereal box IS NOT a gasket in anyone's world.
Though a regular gasket or even gasket paper is the preferred choice, Tony the Tiger has been known to provide his packaging from time to time in the shade tree mechanic world. (no, it's not the best choice)
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 10:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.

There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
When I took mine in under warrantee, the mechanic there himself said my car was done but it needed to sit for 24 hours. I think he'd be telling the true seeing as how it being on their lot costs money.

I also dremeled the block, put a grove in it so the RTV can grab. Some guys actually crosshatch it.
Old Feb 18, 2004 | 10:56 PM
  #30  
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Yea but where do I find permatex and thread sealant?



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