Fixing Intake Manifold Leak....any tips?
Sandwich cereal box between layers of RTV. It makes a damn good gasket material, and helps resist blowout
Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..
I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..
For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..
I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..
For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
Sometimes there are bad batches of any sealant.. I remember we got a shipment of Grey GM sealant and it was partially cured or looked like it had frozen at one point.. Very hard to dispense..
Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black.
I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.
Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black.
I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.
Aight thanks for all your responses..I might start it on thursday if I get the chance. Anyways, the RTV I got is MEGA Copper 888 by VersaChem. Its the "best" kind at discount auto. Temp range up to 700 degrees. I should be fine if I use this, along with some blue locktite on the bolts...and either dimple or cut in some groves?
I have a dremel, you think that will be enough power to cut in a trench? If not ill just sand it down to make it rough and dimple it.
I have a dremel, you think that will be enough power to cut in a trench? If not ill just sand it down to make it rough and dimple it.
Anyways, the RTV I got is MEGA Copper 888 by VersaChem. Its the "best" kind at discount auto.
Don't dig a trench. Just get a sharp center punch and a hammer and make a line of dents about 1/8" apart along the whole wall in front and back and on the bottom of the manifold on the machined ends. Don't do anything to the side faces of the manifold.
Originally posted by dave1w41
Jeez. Don't ever do this.. Some of the advice on this board just goes beyond any rhyme or reason.
Jeez. Don't ever do this.. Some of the advice on this board just goes beyond any rhyme or reason.
Originally posted by dave1w41
You got what? Versa Who? Get a real name brand sealant not Versa-Chem or Valco. You can't go wrong with Permatex sealant. No wonder you guys are having problems, you are using sealants that someone is selling out of the trunk of their car.
Don't dig a trench. Just get a sharp center punch and a hammer and make a line of dents about 1/8" apart along the whole wall in front and back and on the bottom of the manifold on the machined ends. Don't do anything to the side faces of the manifold.
You got what? Versa Who? Get a real name brand sealant not Versa-Chem or Valco. You can't go wrong with Permatex sealant. No wonder you guys are having problems, you are using sealants that someone is selling out of the trunk of their car.
Don't dig a trench. Just get a sharp center punch and a hammer and make a line of dents about 1/8" apart along the whole wall in front and back and on the bottom of the manifold on the machined ends. Don't do anything to the side faces of the manifold.
Also where do I find thread sealant?
Originally posted by shoebox
..and don't use loctite. Use thread sealant. Most of the bolts go through into the head (valve cover area) where they are exposed to oil.
..and don't use loctite. Use thread sealant. Most of the bolts go through into the head (valve cover area) where they are exposed to oil.
thanks for chimming in there, I wasn't to sure about using loctite on my header bolts, what if you had to take off your headres? I had use some peratex heat & antivibration for threads, so far they haven't losen up.
strange thing is that it was the same 2 or 3 bolts that losen. passenger side the back 2 or 3 bolts.
zoso
Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
Sometimes there are bad batches of any sealant.. I remember we got a shipment of Grey GM sealant and it was partially cured or looked like it had frozen at one point.. Very hard to dispense..
Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black.
I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.
Sometimes there are bad batches of any sealant.. I remember we got a shipment of Grey GM sealant and it was partially cured or looked like it had frozen at one point.. Very hard to dispense..
Sometimes we ran out of GM sealant and used other brands.. So I can technicaly see even that you had a leak after a GM dealer worked on it, it does not mean their sealant does not work if it is used properly.. Example.. I worked at a GM dealer for over 7 years... I did at least 50-60 of those LT1 intakes during that time. Not a single one ever came back leaking when I used the GM grey sealant.. Sometimes black.
I am pretty confident that the GM sealants work exremely well.

(no mas, no mas!!!!)
Originally posted by MACGI 98 Z28
Please tell me you are jokin. A cereal box IS NOT a gasket in anyone's world.
Please tell me you are jokin. A cereal box IS NOT a gasket in anyone's world.
(no, it's not the best choice)
Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
I also dremeled the block, put a grove in it so the RTV can grab. Some guys actually crosshatch it.


