Fixing Intake Manifold Leak....any tips?
Fixing Intake Manifold Leak....any tips?
Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.
One question I have is whether or not I should clean the engine off around the Intake before I pull it off? Im still scared to use water on the engine, but I guess I could wipe it off?
Thanks
One question I have is whether or not I should clean the engine off around the Intake before I pull it off? Im still scared to use water on the engine, but I guess I could wipe it off?
Thanks
i pulled off all the devices around the intake (EVAP, vac. lines, injectors, etc.) and then use a vacuum to suck all the loose stuff. I wouldnt wash it, just because you dont want to risk an opti.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
Originally posted by ChickenScreamer94
i pulled off all the devices around the intake (EVAP, vac. lines, injectors, etc.) and then use a vacuum to suck all the loose stuff. I wouldnt wash it, just because you dont want to risk an opti.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
i pulled off all the devices around the intake (EVAP, vac. lines, injectors, etc.) and then use a vacuum to suck all the loose stuff. I wouldnt wash it, just because you dont want to risk an opti.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
If you did, then that sucks cause I just bought some of the copper RTV...discount auto said its the best stuff to use. I have the black rtv that came with the felpro gaskets, should I just use that?
These tips I used and came from other board members...
Use ultra copper. I'm not saying anything is perfect, but heat is an issue with the EGR inlet and the black stuff will not hack it there in many cases. IMO the copper also creates a firmer material when fully cured.
Let the car sit at least 12 (24 hours reccomended by some) hours after reassembly without firing it up. The RTV must cure before you fire it up or it will fail prematurely.
Definitely retighten intake bolts after a few drives. I found my rear bolts had loosened considerably after only a few short trips.
Lightly score the front and rear portions of the Intake with sandpaper to give the RTV something to bond to.
Clean all surfaces. I used a rag and solvent.
Tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. There is a diagram somewhere (I foudn it in the Haynes Manual). Basically its middle, front, then rear bolts in "pairs."
Use 4 short pencils or pens (placed in the bolt holes) to line the intake up as you place it back on (after applying the RTV). This will help you get it in the first time and avoid smearing RTV all over.
Have fun!
Use ultra copper. I'm not saying anything is perfect, but heat is an issue with the EGR inlet and the black stuff will not hack it there in many cases. IMO the copper also creates a firmer material when fully cured.
Let the car sit at least 12 (24 hours reccomended by some) hours after reassembly without firing it up. The RTV must cure before you fire it up or it will fail prematurely.
Definitely retighten intake bolts after a few drives. I found my rear bolts had loosened considerably after only a few short trips.
Lightly score the front and rear portions of the Intake with sandpaper to give the RTV something to bond to.
Clean all surfaces. I used a rag and solvent.
Tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. There is a diagram somewhere (I foudn it in the Haynes Manual). Basically its middle, front, then rear bolts in "pairs."
Use 4 short pencils or pens (placed in the bolt holes) to line the intake up as you place it back on (after applying the RTV). This will help you get it in the first time and avoid smearing RTV all over.
Have fun!
Re: Fixing Intake Manifold Leak....any tips?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 95BlackTA
Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.
One question I have is whether or not I should clean the engine off around the Intake before I pull it off? Im still scared to use water on the engine, but I guess I could wipe it off?
Thanks [/QUOTE
Try using canned air from an office supply store to blow out all of the debris.
Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.
One question I have is whether or not I should clean the engine off around the Intake before I pull it off? Im still scared to use water on the engine, but I guess I could wipe it off?
Thanks [/QUOTE
Try using canned air from an office supply store to blow out all of the debris.
Maybe this link could help you out, Ill be doing this fix soon, but I am going to try to push it off till the cam swap
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/intakefix.htm
Good Luck
-Dustin-
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/intakefix.htm
Good Luck
-Dustin-
Originally posted by ChickenScreamer94
i pulled off all the devices around the intake (EVAP, vac. lines, injectors, etc.) and then use a vacuum to suck all the loose stuff. I wouldnt wash it, just because you dont want to risk an opti.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
i pulled off all the devices around the intake (EVAP, vac. lines, injectors, etc.) and then use a vacuum to suck all the loose stuff. I wouldnt wash it, just because you dont want to risk an opti.
I would use the ultra blue or plain old gray rtv. My copper rtv has let go in the back and is leaking again, only after 1500 miles.
j/k
Originally posted by Zack
so the black wouldnt be good? I got some to use when I put my stuff back together, thats what it had on before and I never had any leaks with it(90k miles)
so the black wouldnt be good? I got some to use when I put my stuff back together, thats what it had on before and I never had any leaks with it(90k miles)
A cereal box? WTH? I might have to give that a shot
can you expain some more on that?
I used loctite, and none of my bolts have backed out.
can you expain some more on that?
Did you retighten down the bolts, or atleast use locktite?
When the intake's off take a punch and dimple the block front and back then do the intake the same this gives the rtv some thing to grip.That's how the dealership I used to work at did it.I found that gm black rtv works the best. Part #12345739 I use it on all my rtv use's.
Let the car sit at least 12 (24 hours reccomended by some) hours after reassembly without firing it up. The RTV must cure before you fire it up or it will fail prematurely.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..
I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..
For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
Last edited by 2MCHPSI; Feb 18, 2004 at 11:02 AM.
Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..
I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..
For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
I strongly disagree with this topic, especially if you use a GM sealer.
There is absolutely no need to let a good sealant cure that long before starting the car up.
It is not the color of the sealant that matters, but the brand of sealant..
I have seen crappy grey, black, coper sealants that will not work well..
For the intakes, i love the GM black and grey sealants.. They come out very tacky, and I would recommend to let them set up for 10-15 minutes before applying the intake on it.. Put it back together, and you will be ok. Just make sure to install the intake stright down, and do not move it around even slightly.
) so Im pretty confident with my method. I do however let the RTV set on the mating surface for 20 minutes or so to let it get tacky so when I drop the intake on there, it is ready to grab hold. Normally by the time that I have properly torqued down the bolts, the RTV that has squeezed out in front is already cured. Its never bad to let it sit longer and in many cases, I try to let it sit as long as I can but when you are sitting there, waiting for RTV to dry after youve buttoned up your motor from a cam install, it can be tough to wait the entire time


