I've had considerable success bringing my car back from the scrap pile, after it was worked on by a bigger idiot than me. I want to start by saying thanx, learned a lot by just reading others threads and by getting replys to my questions as well.
New projects, I'm planning on doing the air pump, egr delete, who makes a good kit for this, what should I look out for. Hearing a high pitch whine sometimes when going down the highway, powersteering pump is going bad, looks like a fun job, any advice or cautionary statements there? And I am thinking about doing the coolant bypass on the throttle body, that's where I was told, obviously I want to ask about what the person was talking about, but the logic seems sound, by passing this would cool the temp of the air going into the engine. Does it work? Should I do it or is it even worth my time to mess with it. Last but not least, any recommendations on a quality obd1 scanner? If it's an obd 1/obd2 scanner that's fine too, I could use it for my monte carlo as well. Also any other upgrades or mods I should look into? Thanx for the help in advance.

 

A few answers:

I recommend scanning software. A lot more useful for data collection and analysis (these will only work on an LT1):

FreeScan (free download and use):

http://andywhittaker.com/ECU/FreeSca...0/Default.aspx

TTS DataMaster (free download, 20 free uses):

http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataMaster.html

Get cable:

http://www.akmcables.com/

Interpret the data:

http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

Throttle body coolant bypass is 6 free HP - no reason not to do it:

http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm

For your 94, you pull the hoses off each side of the throttle body and connect them together with a 3/8" hose barb.

Deleting AIR and EGR will not provide any power gains, other than the effects of minor weight reduction. Do your long tube headers currently have the connections for AIR and EGR?

To remove AIR, unplug the AIR pump harness connector, making sure there is a good fuse in the circuit. That prevents a code from setting (OBD-I only). Pump can be removed by removing the bracket its bolted to. One of the bolts also holds the water pump. Take the air supply hose off that runs from the engine inlet air duct to the pump. Cap the nipple on the air duct with a 5/8" vacuum cap. Tubing and check valves can be removed. May have to cut the tube that runs under the timing cover. Plug the connections on the headers. The stock exhaust manifolds can be plugged with a 22mm-1.5 oil drain plug, and a copper gasket (single-cat manifolds only). Your headers may have different size connections, though.

EGR requires that you remove the vacuum line from the nipple on the drivers side of the intake manifold and cap the nipple. Remove the hose, unbolt the solenoid. Put a 2Kohm resistor in the solenoid harness connector to eliminate the code. Unbolt the valve, and get a blanking plate set to cover the hole for the EGR valve. Remove the corrugated riser tube from #8 exhaust runner to the intake manifold and put plates over the holes:

http://www.sjmmanufacturing.com/

You may get a code for no EGR flow. The OBD-I diagnostic isn't very sensitive, and it may not show up. If you do get a code/SES light, the PCM will need to be reprogrammed to eliminate the code.

 

Unfortunately when I bought the headers and y-pipe I was advised to get the headers that work with the air and egr. And I think I have a blown egr tube anyways. I have a small header leak(blown gasket) that just occured, but before that I was starting to hear a bad exhaust leak, had a crapstang pull up next to me yesterday, and I let him have it, no match. But the leak got noticeably louder. one other question, I think my pcm must have a different program installed than I ordered, my cooling fan#1 comes on @ just above 180 and shuts oFf and allows the car to heat up to about 210 and then both fans come on and cool it back down to 180. But this doesn't happen all the time. Even in the southeast texas heat if I'm not stuck idling and sitting still my temp rarely moves from around 180. Not a problem, but it has me wondering. I've checked the temp gauge and sending unit, they both check out. Is this a bug in the program I had installed?