LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

First Mod: Intake or Exhaust?

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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 11:30 AM
  #31  
FyreLance's Avatar
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Yep, if that.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #32  
badazzcamaro97's Avatar
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I bought a cai and had a muffler welded in, it costs about 320 all together
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 11:40 AM
  #33  
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I was also thinking about just welding in a muffler as well, just for a better sound. Won't give the gains of a cutout though.....i've got some time to think about it.

Oh and on Ligenfelters site, it says that they've gained up to 12rwhp with they're intake on an un-modifyed car, however that does seem pretty generous.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 12:02 PM
  #34  
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I knew down the road I was going to be supercharging so I decided to not spend hundreds on just an air intake.

Instead I just get a K&N filter and use it with the stock ducts. It cost me absolutely nothing (because i got the filter for free) and I spent all the money on somthing esle instead of getting a fancy intake tube that costs a lot.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 12:19 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by FyreLance
Pffffffft sounds pretty generous to me.
Darn you guys you made me go look it up. Believe the #s if you want, I don't know if I do, but have nowhere else to look for accurate #s:

TB Bypass: 5-6 hp
CAI: 10-15
Lower operating temp (thermo & fans): 5-10
Cat-back: 10-12
Y-pipe: ~5
MAF: 5-6
1.6 RRs: 12-17
Headers: 10-15 (believe #s are for shorties)

I don't know how accurate these are (especially the MAF?) but it's hard to get dyno gain #s for these because usually no one dynos their car till after they have a few bolt-ons...

Basically the point is stick to induction and exhaust mods on this car when you're just starting out because that's where you'll see the most gains.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 12:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by disco192
Get a M6, i can name 3 people that have wrecked their cars because they were auto's. When you are 18, you tend to drive fast and give it a little juice around corners. An automatic will shift causing the rear end to break loose.

Example 1: As stated before a friend with a LS1 TA (ran 11's) was changing lanes goin around 40, gave it gas, the tranny shifted, and ended up wrapping the car around a tree.

Example 2: A friend in a 67 (yr?) le-mans 454 was taking a turn in wet weather, his tranny was shifting wrong and he jumped a curb and hit a tree (no serious damage).

Example 3: My best friends brother was driving a 2003 DG Hemi, he was racing someone around a turn... the guy started pulling on him so he gunned it and he spun out and hit a curb. Needed a new wheel (20's arent cheap), rear break assembly, and 12 bolt posi rear end.

For drag racing, a A4 will be faster in most cases and easier on the rear end. For anything else (autocross, rolling starts, highway acceleration, top speed) an M6 will win, plus they are 10x more fun to drive and real men drive stick.

Ok, enough A4 bashing... didnt want to start a war, just inform someone on my opinions.
What a crock of sh*t. Automatics don't cause accidents. Careless drivers cause accidents. Automatics have three main advantages.

1). Easier on the rearend. It has been done many times over where a A4 gets 11's in the 1/4 mile on a stock 10 bolt. I have seen them go 1.6 60' times on ET streets and not break. Try that in a M6.

2). Torque Converter. The stock ones suck but after market ones kick a$$. This is why autos rule at the track. A high stall/high STR torque converter can help autos launch 1.7 and below 60' times and easily knock .5 off the ET. Yank, Midwest, TCI, PI are the reasons autos can be a lot of fun to drive. If you want to do serious drag racing / bracket racing then A4's are definately the way to go.

3). Daily driving in heavy traffic. Ever been on an expressway in bumper to bumper traffic at a dead stop? Then you move a little and stop again. Some people have to drive in that every morning (not me thank god). All I know is if I lived and worked in a big city with lots of traffic then I would want an A4 hands down.

Now If you only want to race on the street/freeway then you definately want a M6. And a lot of bail money

AutoX / roadcourse you definately want a M6.

Weekend toy to tool around town in or cruise some of those sweet country roads then you definately want a M6.

Traveling salesmen that do a lot of highway driving under normal condidtions you most certainly want a M6 for the better gas mileage.

My point is there are conceivable reasons why someone would want one instead of the other. And as for your real men drive sticks comment let me just say this:

Real men are kind. Real men are generous. Real men love and respect thier families. Real men make time for thier spouses, girlfriends, children & siblings no matter how busy they are. Real men treat others with the courtesy and respect they want for themselves. Real men look for solutions to probems rather then scapegoats to blame them on.

I could go on and on but I think you get the idea that being a man has absolutely nothing to do with the type of transmission in your vehicle.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 03:25 PM
  #37  
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this is all i have to say. get use to the car learn how to handle the car first. to need to first know how to drive the car and controle it. then do your mods. i am 18 years old my first car was a geo then i moved up to a honda crx that i had swaps done and all that tuner stuff then i drove my buddys mustange around to learn how to handle it then i got my camaro and moded it i paid for all these cars and mods with my own money also. if your on a budget save up your money dont buy the cheapest cat back out there or the cheapest headers you need to rember u get what u pay for. thats just my .02
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 03:28 PM
  #38  
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I'll definatly only be putting quality products on my car, i'd rather spend a bit more and get a better product out of it.

I'm also leaning towards getting an M6, but if i find a sweet deal on an A4 i might not pass it up.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 04:00 PM
  #39  
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Darren, i agree with you on the aspect of bracket racing. In bracket racing auto's are much better. They are also alot nicer on rear ends. Manuals will most likely need a 12 bolt with anything under a 1.8 60' time.

But when it comes to bumper to bumper traffic with a big stall converter, yea... thats not very fun (some people have different ideas of "fun"). And big stall converters in the rain is almost a f*cking joke.

My main point with my friends accidents (and yes they were immature) was that a m6 is easier to control, because you are in control of the engine. Did the transmission CAUSE the accident? Probably not. Would it have happened with a manual.... i think they wouldnt, maybe im wrong.

With that said, if i found a killer deal on an A4, i would do it.

And that "real men drive stick" comment was mostly a joke between a couple friends. One of my friends has an LS1 A4 Trans Am and he always claimed it was faster than stick. I got my M6 LT1 and kick his *** all day long. We later found out he cant drive stick (he can't even learn), lol.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 04:25 PM
  #40  
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Originally posted by disco192
Darren, i agree with you on the aspect of bracket racing. In bracket racing auto's are much better. They are also alot nicer on rear ends. Manuals will most likely need a 12 bolt with anything under a 1.8 60' time.

But when it comes to bumper to bumper traffic with a big stall converter, yea... thats not very fun (some people have different ideas of "fun"). And big stall converters in the rain is almost a f*cking joke.

My main point with my friends accidents (and yes they were immature) was that a m6 is easier to control, because you are in control of the engine. Did the transmission CAUSE the accident? Probably not. Would it have happened with a manual.... i think they wouldnt, maybe im wrong.

With that said, if i found a killer deal on an A4, i would do it.

And that "real men drive stick" comment was mostly a joke between a couple friends. One of my friends has an LS1 A4 Trans Am and he always claimed it was faster than stick. I got my M6 LT1 and kick his *** all day long. We later found out he cant drive stick (he can't even learn), lol.
Most likely if someone puts a big stall in it (3800 or higher) then it's not gonna see much daily driving or stop and go traffic. But I know what you are saying and I agree that a race stall and daily driving/rain/snow driving do not mix well at all. First thing anyone with an A4 should do before the TC gets picked is decide if his/her car is street only, strip only or a street/strip combo.

But a street/strip stall can give you a nice compromise. Like maybe a 2800/2.0 for a LT1 or a 3500/2.2 for a LS1. Those stalls will still give sweet gain in the 1/4 mile, be good for N20 and be streetable even in rain.

I guarantee having A4's is not what caused your friends to have an accident. If it was then GM would have one hell of a factory recall and better have all thier lawyers ready to go. This of course refers to stock or nearly stock cars. If someone puts a 3800 stall, 2.7 STR TC in a car and leaves street tires on they might have some issues going WOT at 40 mph. That has nothing to do with the tranny but everything to do with the owner not compensating for his new setup.

I didn't know about any inside joke with the real men drive m6's comment so my appologies. I myself want to buy another F-body in the next year or two and it'll definately be a M6. I want to take my A4 (converted to A3) to be my track beast/trailer queen and get a LT1 M6 to be my daily driver.

Best of both worlds right there

Now to get the wife to sign off on the idea
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