No, it's not possible for a rotor to fall off if the engine hasn't been run.

You have spark, at least sometimes, to be able to get a backfire.

Before jumping to the opti conclusion, start by checking every connection. Start at the grey connector on the passenger side of the intake manifold that goes to the opti. Check for corrosion or bent pins. After that check the connection at the opti for the same issues. Check the connectors at the coil. Check each spark plug wire for correct fitment.

I have to tell you that even though you're sure the opti is installed correctly I believe it to be installed wrong. What you describe is consistent with the timing being off that much.....

 

well i'll take the opti off and reinstall but im positive its on there right i had the cam at 1 tdc and did the same for the opti, i mean there is only one way it would sit corectly it wont seat properly if the cam didn't make it into its groove am i right i could be wrong? also i'm getting spark all the way to the coil, i did the icm test to prove that the opti is sending the right signals to the coil got 11 some volts on A and D and 2 something cranking on B, so that leads me to believe the fault lies somewhere in the cap and rotor area

 

I know that it seems to be impossible to get it wrong but it happens quite often. I couldn't begin to tell you how many times people are certain it's right just to pull it apart and find it isn't...

When you have the opti back off, open it up and put red locktite on the rotor screws. It's a little preventative medicine...

Good luck!

 

yeah i have loctite to put on it i have to go to autozone first and get some waterpump gaskets then i'll tackle this is it safe to try and crank the car with waterpump off the block just to see if it will crank?

 

Sure, just don't it long. A few seconds says it runs and that's all you need....

 

yeah i'll let everyone know how it goes if its installed wrong im really gonna feel stupid but i put the opti back at 1 tdc to match the cam oh well we'll see

 

I use the green threadlocker I think its also for plastic. Regular red loctite will still work, but it is a metal screw going into plastic.

 

No, it's a metal screw going through a plastic rotor into a metal slotted disc. Red is the right locktite to use.....

 

well pulled opti off took a look it looked fine was installed right, the harness though that connects to the pcm and then goes to the coil was broken a tad all the prongs still worke dnad i could get them on put everything back together went for start still no start..... i mean even though the harness is broken the icm test checked out so it was still sending the proper readings through the harness

 

checked opti spark twice now followed a guide i found for no start says check for pulsing ground atr green wire for coil i did not have pulsing ground although the pink wire light up also have coil and icm off car tested continuity on coil prongs via what shboxs site says, my coil is slightly different though and i get 5500ish ohms which is lower then the 8500 projected think theyre both bad preventing start?

 

anyone else have any insight, icm tested fine at autozone even got nice and warm, coil or harness are my assumptions then i guess

 

Valves to tight?

 

the valves wer to tight i loosened and readjusted them and got the car to start during WOT but if i let off the gas it dies. I figured it was because nothing was hooked up so i hooked everything back up and re installed had the same thing let it sit at 2000-2500 rpms for like 30seconds hoping it would kill the funk and let off and it died. Since then now the car only starts during WOT and even with WOT it only idles at about 500-600 rpms now before dieing. Spark plugs are black and carboned which is expected from an untuned car with bigger injectors, but also smell like fuel and had a slight bit of fuel on them so its getting fuel. I went to test the IAC with the information on shbox's site and i'm not sure if i was ddoing it right. You unplug the wire and test for continuity on the wire itself right because the packs are in the pcm, i did that but was getting nothing no continuity between any of the contact so i'm wondering if thats where the problem lies.... heres a vid to describe what it does

Lt1 no start - YouTube

 

How tight were they? Now im thinking massive vacume leak or bent valves.

 

they were tight... i really ****ed that one up to be honest, but i mean the car started after i loosened them and revved freely just wouldn't idle now it won't even rev freely