Congrats!

 

Well I'm not sure when it gave up, it was still in place as I was staging...but when I turned onto the return road I noticed that I had no power steering, and my volts had dropped. So the belt was on for at least part of the 1/4 mile

I was hoping to give it another try this weekend, but it snowed pretty good last night, so no go

 

That's a young motor in my book! At least it's a iron block motor so the thing will seat in a lot shorter time frame than a LS motor does!

Keep tweaking and you'll just get faster. Good job!

Bret

 

I finally tossed the OEM belt on my C5 @ 115,000 miles. I replaced it with a Goodyear Gatorback belt. Changed the tensioner too.

The belt ribs have angled grooves thru them (like the original Gatorback tires). It seems like it might follow the pulleys better. Only costs a couple bucks more.

Jon

 

Thanks for the suggestion, but throwing belts is not the problem, the spring in the tensioner flat out broke so there was no tension at all on the belt.

Surprisingly, the belt didn't end up on the track though, it stayed basicly in place, just not making good enough contact with any of the pulleys to turn them.

When I removed the old tensioner, I found that not only would it move freely because the spring had broken, but also the bearing in the pulley was grinding. It was the original tensioner that GM installed on my car from the factory, so I think it was just worn out. I haven't had any belt related problems since...and trust me it's seen plenty of 7k shifts since this little mishap

 

That sucker is moving out hard, get it bitting harder out the hole and you got yourself a solid mid 11 second car

 

what are you using for rear tires?

 

For the track, Mickey Thompson drag radials, 255/50-16 mounted on my stock salad shooters

For the street, BFG g-force drag radials, 295/35-18 on my 18 x 10.5 ZO6 wheels

 

how do the g force stick on the street?

 

They stick as good on the street as the M/T's do

However, on the track they don't work near as well as the M/T's. The fastest that I have ever ran at the track on the BFG's was in the 12.30s. Not too bad for such a low profile tire, but bolting on the M/T's knocks the times down to low 12s/high 11s

 

i am looking to put something on my 94 383Z which with traction should be well into the 11s but i don't want to have to change tires at the track as well as be able to hook up at a stop lite. I am eyeing 2754017 et streets or the drag radial hoiser has?

 

I would say that the M/Ts in your size is your best bet if you don't wanna change tires at the track. I have no experience with the hoosiers though.

 

I would suggest against going with a 17" DR as, imho, they don't hook nearly as well as the 255 50 R16 M/T DRs on stock 16x8 wheels...There's just not enough sidewall with the 17s, unless you go with one of the newer 27-28" tall 17" DRs (I forget who makes them)...I tried the 275 17s for a long time and was not very consistent at the track...When I tried the 255s on the 16"s the difference was huge...I was going consistent 1.55 60's with the smaller tire...Front to back contact patch is just as important as tread width...

--Alan

 

wow congradulations man. and the best part is your still not done. much better times to come with a better launch (easier said then done with the t56 though). have you tried shifting at lower rpms? unless you got a monster cam, thats higher then you should be shifting.

chris

 

aba how much faster were the 16s than the 17s. don't really want to put on 16s but if thats what it takes i guess thats what i'll do. would you go with 16s' on the front as well?