This weekend I will be replacing my clutch, using a Ram clutch, and I was reading thru past posts and had a couple questions before I go ahead and do this job. Why is it needed for the rear axle to be jacked up as well as the body? Wouldn't it be easy with the suspension unloaded to pull the TA? What is the best way to remove the tranny, tranny from the bellhousing or bellhousing from the engine? As far as getting my flywheel resurfaced, on average what could a shop usually charge for that and what type of shop should I go to for this? I may be doing this on a car lift or I may be doing it in the driveway with jackstands, it's still up in the air on which method I will be using. I know to use u-joint sockets with 2' extentions, any other helpful hints on this job? Thanks

 

Not sure about the rear axle thing.. I didnt have that problem.

I just unbolted the bellhousing from the block and it came out fine.

Believe I was charged $20 for a flywheel resurface. Orilleys would do it however Id rather have a good machine shop do the work.

U-joint and swivel sockets are the only way I got to 3-4 of the bolts so w/o them I would have been screwed.

 

anyone else have input?

 

I have done a great number og clutch installs over my 30 plus years of wrenching and i would personally pull the trans seprate on the fbody. For a couple reasons. Pull the trans off the bell housing will let you get to the bellhousing bolts easier and if you are working in your driveway it will be less cumbersom to install in 2 pieces. Make sure you get and use the clutch alogment tool that usually comes with the clutch kit. If not buy one. You will thank yourself 100 times if you use one. Any decent automotive machine shop can handle resufracing you flywheel including most NAPA's and Parts Plus. Orielies or however you spell it is decent, but no mater the place it is all up to the person doing it. It is usually in the $20-$50 range. I didnt see you mention mileage but you might consider replacing your input shaft bushing that is pressed into the crank. it is a PITA to get out in the car most of the times but at the very least get a little moly lube in it. They tend to get dry after several years and 60k miles or so.
Just my 2 pennies

 

I took the trans down and then the bellhouseing as well. The only time you need to jack the axle up is when you're trying to slide the TA back on and that can be a PITA, but once you see what you have to do its not so bad. Neither was replacing the clutch hydraulics.

 

Just a couple quick notes. Make sure you have both wrenchs and sockets. With 2 of the bolts ( at about 10 and 2 looking towards the back of the engine), it is a lot easier to just take the time and use a wrench. On the very top 2 bolts, I just used about a 4' tranny extension and breaker bar combo that worked very well. Also, remember to pull out the clutch fork after you get the slave cylinder and it's surrounding housing off. It's definatly easier to take out the tranny then the bellhousing whether you are on the ground or on a lift, I've did it both wyas. Also, save some time and completly take out the shifter before lowering the tranny. It won't scrap against the underside of the tunnel that way. I've did mine by myself twice already and it's really no big deal.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I know it shouldn't be too hard considering its a RWD car. I mean I was able to change the clutch in my Maxima (V6 FWD) with just 1 friend, it took us like 13 hours but it was done, so I am very confident in doing this job plus I am very mechanical inclined. As far as the input shaft bushing, I was thinking about doing that as well since the car has 116k miles. What is the easiest way to remove it, without a puller? I maybe consider doing the rear main as well, I know to just put the old one out, but what is the easiest way (without damaging) to put it back in? Thanks again guys.

I forgot to ask...If I am doing this job on the ground what is the ideal way to jack the car up? How high should I put it?